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Posted By Discussion Topic: oil sender     Drbrown 09-25-2018 @ 7:54 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 571 Joined: Nov 2013 Different make car but I had a gauge that didn't move. Took it apart out of curiosity, found nothing, reassembled it. Suddenly it worked. Apparently the molding on the front of the gauge was too tight and kept the needle indicator from moving. Has worked ever since. Maybe you had/have such a gremlin. MICHV8 09-25-2018 @ 12:23 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 448 Joined: Jul 2010 well...I attached a ground wire and pushed the ignition switch and the needle moved quickly, so I turned the switch off immediately. I then disconnected the temporary ground and restarted the car and the gauge now works! Ha, "O, what a tangled web we weave when first we practise to deceive" Walter Scott JM 09-25-2018 @ 9:47 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 823 Joined: Oct 2009 Consider plumbing in a mechanical oil pressure gauge to get some idea of what oil pressure you have while sorting out the problem(s) with the original type sender or gauge. John kubes40 09-25-2018 @ 7:28 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 3406 Joined: Oct 2009 TomO… yep, in addition to what I'd mentioned, you make quite valid points. Mike "Kube" Kubarth TomO 09-25-2018 @ 7:10 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7256 Joined: Oct 2009 Actually Mike, it is important to have the sending unit match the oil pump and pressure relief valve. An 80# pump will peg the dash gauge with a 50# sending unit when the pump is putting out 50#. With 10w-30 my gauge shows about 60# when cold and it is around there when cruising at 55 when warm. The dash unit will not be accurate as to the correct pressure, but the actual pressure doesn't matter as long as I know that I have adequate pressure. You can have a good idea of the pressure as the gauge will read about 62% of the true reading. The half way point on the scale will be 40# and the 1/4 mark will be 20#. I have checked these readings using an air compressor with an accurate pressure regulator as the pressure source on several units and gauges. Tom kubes40 09-25-2018 @ 6:01 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 3406 Joined: Oct 2009 Early units had no markings as there was no such thing as an 80# unit to be differentiated from. When the 80# units came in to production, a method was required to easily tell them apart. That's when they all started to be stamped on the brass base - either "50" or "80". It is important to have the dash gauge match the sending unit or you will get an erroneous reading. Mike "Kube" Kubarth Drbrown 09-24-2018 @ 8:37 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 571 Joined: Nov 2013 2x what kubes40 said. I have a 59AB and understand it has an 80 lb oil pump as OE. I wanted to add that if your sender unit is bad, be sure to get an 80 lb. sender unit. The lb. rating is normal stamped on the bottom of the sender. I believe earlier pumps were 50 lb. using a matching sender. I found an NOS 80 lb. sender unit on Ebay. Probably could sometimes find sender units and gauges in the classified ads at ford forums. kubes40 09-24-2018 @ 3:29 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 3406 Joined: Oct 2009 The easiest (first thing)to do, is to attach a ground wire to the terminal of the engine sending unit. Then flip on the ignition switch. If the dash gauge registers, the engine sending unit is faulty. Only allow the switch to be on long enough to detect movement of the dash gauge needle - no longer. If the dash gauge does not move in the above test, it usually is a sign the dash gauge is faulty. On occasion it can be faulty wiring. Mike "Kube" Kubarth MICHV8 09-24-2018 @ 3:12 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 448 Joined: Jul 2010 My 59AB has a oil pressure gauge that is not moving at all. It is in a 39 and the temp, fuel, and battery gauges seem active. The engine runs and doesn't sound bad...what is the best way to diagnose the problem? Thanks.

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