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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 1940 Deluxe Convertible

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Posted By Discussion Topic: 1940 Deluxe Convertible

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sarahcecelia
07-28-2018 @ 2:18 PM
Senior
Posts: 1193
Joined: Mar 2013
          
Mike, I'd love it if you would post a diagram and/or schematic of the steel lines and rubber hoses and tees from the kick panel to the under seat area, and I'm sure it would help others with convertibles too. I see no steel lines in mine, but I guess I could make some somehow or have them made?? Do you know anybody that makes them???

sarahcecelia
07-28-2018 @ 2:05 PM
Senior
Posts: 1193
Joined: Mar 2013
          
Which port on the top vacuum switch is up and which is down?

sarahcecelia
07-28-2018 @ 2:03 PM
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Posts: 1193
Joined: Mar 2013
          
How does the steel line get from the kick panel to the tunnel?

sarahcecelia
07-28-2018 @ 2:01 PM
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Posts: 1193
Joined: Mar 2013
          
Can you make both of these photos larger? the second one is kind of small to see the detail.

sarahcecelia
07-28-2018 @ 1:58 PM
Senior
Posts: 1193
Joined: Mar 2013
          
Can't see much in the first photo Mike. (The one with the hose and steel tubing routing.)

This message was edited by sarahcecelia on 8-3-18 @ 6:43 AM

kubes40
07-21-2018 @ 4:03 PM
Senior
Posts: 3408
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Scott, I'd think at idle, perhaps a bit higher, you'd expect to see at least 12# or so.

Opening those canisters will cause no issues. On the end of that polished shaft is nothing more than a leather diaphragm.
As long as you have the cylinders out, I might suggest you open them. Be certain the cylinders are clean and the walls are not pitted.
I use an engine cylinder hone - the type with abrasive balls, to hone the cylinders a bit.
The leathers are often dry. If so, and they are not torn, soak them in Neatsfoot oil.
There is a seal at the top plate that surrounds the shaft... be certain that is pliable. If not, let me know and I'll get you the modern number.
Lastly, be certain that bottom nipple is not plugged.


Originally there was a very thin paper gasket between the top plate and the top lip of the canister. It will crumble when you disassemble the unit. Simply use a little silicone there... no issues.

Mike "Kube" Kubarth

sdflieg
07-21-2018 @ 11:43 AM
Member
Posts: 5
Joined: Feb 2016
          
Kube,

Thanks for your response. The lines are all in place and the wipers do function. I have followed from the "T" on the inside of the firewall to the top controller in and out. I can confirm that the right size 5/16" tubing has been used. As far as the canisters I am not sure how to test them or what I might get into by opening them up.

Any idea how much vacuum pressure I should see coming off of the intake manifold.

Scott


Regards,

Scott D. Fliegel

kubes40
07-21-2018 @ 11:35 AM
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Posts: 3408
Joined: Oct 2009
          
This photo depicts the lines behind the rear seat riser.
The photo in my previous post depicts the lines along the floor - the same line(s) that run behind the cowl kick panel.

Mike "Kube" Kubarth

kubes40
07-21-2018 @ 11:34 AM
Senior
Posts: 3408
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Do the tanks function properly? That's the first place to check for top operating issues.
These can be rebuilt if necessary.

The routing of this system is fairly simple and if you desire, I can "dig out" a schematic.
Simply, vacuum is supplied via a rubber tube that is routed from a 5/16" diameter nipple located near the left - rear of the intake. That rubber hose is connected to a "TEE" fitting near the wiper motor. One 1/4" diameter rubber hose goes from the TEE to the wiper motor. Another rubber hose, 5/16" diameter is routed to the switch.

From the switch, there are two rubber hoses that are routed to a pair of steel lines behind the left cowl kick panel. Those steel lines are continuous and are routed on the floor - near the tunnel.
Once those steel lines enter the rear seat riser area, each is met with a rubber TEE. From that rubber TEE are yet more steel lines that end up near the bottom of each cylinder. A rubber hose (5/16") connects the line to the respective port on the cylinder.
I will post another picture in a separate post.

Vacuum? The short and sweet answer is as much as your engine will produce. Do not expect this top to operate anywhere near as well as your new Mercedes. It won't. I rebuild the entire system and even then, it operates "okay".


Mike "Kube" Kubarth

sdflieg
07-21-2018 @ 10:57 AM
Member
Posts: 5
Joined: Feb 2016
          
This is the vacuum actuator out of my 1940 Ford deluxe convertible. My top will not go up or down. Does anyone have ny schematics on the convertible tops, what the vacuum pressure should be, break out drawings etc? Any information is appreciated

Regards,

Scott D. Fliegel

This message was edited by sdflieg on 7-21-18 @ 11:10 AM

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