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Discussion Topic:
clutch travel
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MICHV8 |
07-17-2018 @ 5:13 PM
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Member
Posts: 462
Joined: Jul 2010
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I followed Steve's suggestion and everything is great...thanks for responding
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woodiewagon46 |
07-17-2018 @ 6:59 AM
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Senior
Posts: 704
Joined: Nov 2012
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Mitch, lets go back to square one. Except for the clutch needing replacement was the car running fine before you replaced the clutch? Did you remove or take apart all the linkage? What else did you change? I'm still leaning towards the clutch disk in back to front. If you can see the transmission shaft and clutch disc, the clutch hub, (that rides on the input shaft), will be longer towards the transmission side, if in correctly. The short side needs to face the engine. Are the throwout bearing forks behind the throwout bearing? I can't imagine a simple clutch replacement having this much trouble. Usually when a clutch is replaced all you need to do is a simple adjustment. Sometimes people just use up the clutch and never adjust it so the stock adjustment works. Puzzling?
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supereal |
07-16-2018 @ 2:13 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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It is, more than likely, either too much free play in the clutch pedal, or something preventing full travel of the pedal. One of our customers complained of grinding shifts, and it turned out to be that a floor mat had worked forward and was under the pedal just enough to prevent complete disengagement when the pedal was pushed. Wish all were that easy to solve!
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MICHV8 |
07-16-2018 @ 1:42 PM
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Member
Posts: 462
Joined: Jul 2010
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Steve I could spot a small gap and maybe the tops of the splines so I worked a dab of grease in the crease and the clutch disk now stops rotating with the pedal in...she shifts real nice and quiet. Great job and thanks to all for the help.
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MICHV8 |
07-16-2018 @ 12:41 PM
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Member
Posts: 462
Joined: Jul 2010
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Steve I can see the release bearing, but I can't see the input shaft splines... so is this dab of grease applied as close as possible to the clutch disk?
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MICHV8 |
07-16-2018 @ 11:54 AM
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Member
Posts: 462
Joined: Jul 2010
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Tom() et al I have about 1-1 1/4 inch freeplay before the throwout bearing (new...pilot bearing is new as well) moves. I will try to add a dab of grease and see if that helps Thanks everyone
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TomO |
07-16-2018 @ 7:41 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7256
Joined: Oct 2009
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This question was asked before, how much free play do you have before the throwout bearing touches the pressure plate fingers? If your freeplay is less than 1 inch, check for excess play in the pedal bushings and the cross shaft bushings. If the bushings are not worn, you will have to remove the transmission to check that the pressure plate fingers are adjusted correctly and that the springs on the disc are not hitting on the flywheel bolts. If you have a 10" clutch, you will have to remove the engine to check the clutch as the poil pan has to be removed in order to service the clutch.
Tom
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Chascwell2 |
07-15-2018 @ 4:32 PM
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Member
Posts: 35
Joined: Feb 2014
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Could be a transmission input shaft pilot bearing in the flywheel that needs replacement
chascwell
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sarahcecelia |
07-15-2018 @ 2:02 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1193
Joined: Mar 2013
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Aha!! See my reply a bout a dry mainshaft!! Sounds like your clutch is turning that shaft causing the grind! It seems like you failed to lube the mainshaft so the clutch won't fully release.You have an access plate which should make it a very easy fix. Mind you if you lube that shaft, don't overdo it. You don't want that grease on the clutch disc!! Just a "dab," it will spead itself to all of the splines automaticly, because every time you"clutch it" that disc lands on a different position on that shaft"
Regards, Steve Lee
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sarahcecelia |
07-15-2018 @ 1:49 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1193
Joined: Mar 2013
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I was a top mechanic for vw, and then Buick. The customer complaint was the car was grinding when it was shifted into 1st gear, and 1st gear was sychronized in them after 1960,and the customer had a car with a fully synchronized trans. That was 100 % of the time, a dry mainshaft! You have to get to the main shaft and just put a "dab" of grease on it. On the VW it was easy. With the car on the lift, about 2 feet or so off the floor, I just pulled the engine back about a half inch, with the four mounting bolt nuts off, then with the car on the lift; I put a "dab" of grease on a long screw driver,and turned the left rear wheel with my foot as I touched the grease on to the shaft. Push the engine forward , install the four nuts on the mount bolts, tighten them up and done. This will give you an idea of what to do.You see, when that shaft is dry, the clutch disc can't slide back away from the flywheel. When that happens it keeps the shaft turning, and then the gears are tuning, so they grind.
Regards, Steve Lee
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