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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Brake problem

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Discussion Topic: Brake problem

42oink

06-13-2018 @ 10:59 AM

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Greetings Strodder, One other thing to check would be the flex lines going to the calipers. When I converted my car to discs, the hoses looked fine, but after a few test drives with symptoms like yours, found that the hoses inside were partially plugged. The brakes dragged slightly but wouldn't let the fluid return. Replaced hoses and all is well, (knock on wood). And who was it that said, "it's always somethin". Good luck, and rodder or not, there are a lot of sharp guys in this club, so feel free to check back. 42oink

woodiewagon46

06-12-2018 @ 7:23 AM

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I have used the following companies that deal in braking systems for modified cars. ECI, 860-872-7046 is the first one I would call. Others are Master Power Brakes, 888-351-8781 and Godman Hi-Performance, 901-382-7404.

1934 Ford

06-11-2018 @ 6:44 PM

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Strodder,
What pedal assembly are you using? The stock one has a return spring in the assembly, Just a thought.
Also you may consider Dot 5 Silicone fluid. You'll have to clean the system out with alcohol first but it will avoid the mositure that kills brake systems. I did a 40 Ford pickup 1n 1983 with it and the brakes ares still functioning 35 years later!

1934 Ford's since 1972

trjford8

06-07-2018 @ 7:14 AM

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You definitely need to have a good strong pedal return spring. Also I install the residual valve(check valve)
between the rear brakes and the proportioning valve, not before the proportioning valve. Make sure the residual valves are plumbed in the correct direction( they should be labeled with IN and OUT near the ends). Are you sure you have the correct master cylinder for your four wheel disc brake setup? Lately I have seen several people get CPP parts that were sent in error. The pedal not returning and locking the brakes tells me that the rear residual valve may be located in he wrong place and possibly not correctly oriented to the master cylinder.

TomO

06-07-2018 @ 6:27 AM

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Your Car is very nice. We will answer questions on modified cars when we can.

I have not had a good experience with vacuum bleeders. Check out Youtube for one man bleeder made from a pop bottle. It works very well. Did you hook up the pedal return spring? It is required for proper brake operation. The rotor wobble should move the pads away from the rotor and the spring should return the pedal.

Tom

Strodder

06-06-2018 @ 12:26 PM

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Thanks, I didn't realize that. I thought it was for modified cars too.

ford38v8

06-06-2018 @ 11:19 AM

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Strodder, Charlie is correct, this is not the right forum for questions on modified cars. However, a possible answer to your question may confirm air bubbles if you are using silicone brake fluid. Silicone fluid must be bled very slowly to avoid soft pedal from air inclusion.

Alan

This message was edited by ford38v8 on 6-6-18 @ 11:20 AM

CharlieStephens

06-06-2018 @ 9:50 AM

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Beautiful car. I am sure if anyone knows the answer they will post it. This site focuses on original and restored cars, you might have better luck here: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/forums/the-hokey-ass-message-board.5/

Charlie Stephens

Strodder

06-06-2018 @ 9:44 AM

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I'm working on a 40 Ford with disc brakes in front and a Ford Exploria disc brakes on the rear. I installed a CPP below the floor power master cylinder kit. I installed a 2lb check valves to the front and rear. I also installed an adjustable proportional valve for the rear after the check valve. I bled the brakes including bench bleed the master many times, but still seems like I'm getting air bubbles. FYI, I'm using a vacuum bleeder. The pedal and rod that goes to the master has the correct clearance.. I have brakes and it stops all 4 wheels, but it's a low pedal, and it doesn't return to the top. I have th pull the pedal up with my foot to release the brakes. This is the first time working on below the floor master cylinder..
I'm stumped, any help would be appreciated.

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