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Discussion Topic:
hot start; wouldn't stop
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EdB |
02-19-2018 @ 7:57 AM
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Member
Posts: 47
Joined: Nov 2009
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Installed Super's recommended starting enhancement; ran 10 guage wire, with a diode inserted, from the starter side of the solenoid to the positive wire on the coil. Fastest start ever, but when I moved the ignition switch to Stop, the engine kept running. Stopped it by pulling the lead from the coil to the distributor. Where did I go wrong this time? Thank you, EdB
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cliftford |
02-19-2018 @ 12:01 PM
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Senior
Posts: 845
Joined: Jan 2014
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Unhook the circuit you added at the coil, put a volt meter on it and see if you are getting current through it to ground, with the engine running. If so, it sounds like a defective solenoid. There should be no current at the solenoid starter post [the one that goes to the starter] except when the engine is cranking. Also check the ignition switch and make sure it is shutting off every time.
This message was edited by cliftford on 2-19-18 @ 12:39 PM
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Drbrown |
02-19-2018 @ 6:50 PM
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Posts: 570
Joined: Nov 2013
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Depending how your system's wired (or mis-wired) your generator or alternator could be feeding your coil directly (by passing the ignition switch). This problem is more common with alternators because they put-out more at lower rpms as long as the engine is rotating. Because of this possibility I installed a 4-terminal Master/Kill Switch .... two for battery and two for the Alternator. Key is to check your wiring and as said, your solenoid and ignition switch.
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cliftford |
02-19-2018 @ 8:06 PM
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Senior
Posts: 845
Joined: Jan 2014
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After re-reading your post something just hit me. Assuming you still have a 6v positive ground system, it sounds like you may have the coil wired backwards. It wouldn't cause the problem you describe, but the coil would put out a weaker spark.
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TomO |
02-20-2018 @ 7:22 AM
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Posts: 7250
Joined: Oct 2009
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It would help if you gave more details about the car. Year? 6 or 12V? What direction is the arrow on the diode pointing?
Tom
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supereal |
02-20-2018 @ 2:01 PM
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Here is my original instructionsM
This message was edited by supereal on 2-20-18 @ 2:06 PM
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supereal |
02-20-2018 @ 2:08 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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Apparently my scanner is playing games. I'll try again.
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MG |
02-20-2018 @ 2:15 PM
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Posts: 1254
Joined: Nov 2009
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supereal - Thanks for posting that again....
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supereal |
02-20-2018 @ 2:23 PM
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Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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Finally found the original page. Follow the instructions carefully and it should do as mentioned. If you connect the circuit to the battery side of the solenoid, instead of the starter side, it will override the ignition switch, the engine will not stop as mentioned in the post. A word of caution: Pushing the starter button without the switch will run the engine as long as the button is pushed. This is important if you are "bumping" the starter button to turn the engine while you are under the hood. Disconnect the circuit at one end or the other if you are working on the engine. I devised this "quick start" more years ago than I want to remember. The purpose is to bypass the resistor to compensate for the voltage drop due to the starter and provide full voltage to the coil. then automatically return the system to stock when the engine starts. For cars in the 50's and 60's this type of circuit was built into the system It really helps starting hot or cold.
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EdB |
02-20-2018 @ 5:21 PM
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Member
Posts: 47
Joined: Nov 2009
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The car is a 41. much of the wiring is original. 6 volt positive ground. Has a pancake distributor and round coil; both the coil and the condenser are new from NAPA. The diode is installed so that the end with the band is closest to the coil. Used 10 gauge stranded wire. Diode was soldered in place. Connections were covered with shrink wrap. After the wire was connected to the starter side of the solenoid, the coil end touched some metal and a small spark resulted, so I assume that the diode is correctly placed. Thanks for considering this. Good driving weather is approaching.
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