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Discussion Topic:
Engine and Accessories Paint Colors
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Early46 |
11-21-2017 @ 6:57 AM
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Member
Posts: 18
Joined: Feb 2010
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Thanks Len for the great reply! We do have the EFV8 book and know about the correct colors and gloss levels. What is not in the book are the specifics on what is and is not painted, i.e. machined surfaces. This also means then that the head nuts, studs, bolts, etc were not painted. I know Mike did a great job on his restorations, he is a great asset! This vehicle is a first month's production in 46 and as such we have found many interesting "features" of getting the car production line back up after the war. We found Oxy-torch cutouts for the body to fit the frame! Also the spot welding on one side rocker was pretty obviously done by a newbie or someone who had partied hardy the night before! All of which we left as is! I think this car will be a trailer queen at least for the first year or so, then a daily driver. Sort of sounds like that is what the plan is. This engine has a stamped crank pulley (may have been a replacement) and it probably should be a cast pulley, it was painted engine color under all the rust and mud, so that prompted the question! Sort of wish the 46-48 Advisor were on the forum, it is great to get questions answered quickly so we can keep builds moving along. Thanks again for your great reply! Charles
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len47merc |
11-21-2017 @ 4:44 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1165
Joined: Oct 2013
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Early46 - your question is specific to 1946 (and by default '47 & '48). Engine blocks of this era were Ford blue. The blocks were painted before machining and accordingly machined surfaces such as the top of the block the intake is mounted to will correctly be left bare metal on a properly painted block. I have observed some placing a clear coat on this (and other) surface(s) to keep it (them) from rusting in more humid climates - again, to be correct machined surfaces should be left bare metal. Quoting from The 1941-1948 Ford Book, 'Inner fenders, engine pans, engine accessories, frame and chassis components and other black surfaces should be a shade of gloss black. A correctly restored vehicle may actually have several shades of black, varying from quite glossy black on sheet metal panels to a non-reflective flat black on the radiator surfaces'. There is quite an ongoing debate on what in today's paints equates to the 'glossy' black of 1946 and I do not wish to rekindle that dialogue here, and will only state that excluding the radiator what I have observed to be most endorsed by judges and senior advisers here on our Forum is satin and semi-gloss blacks best reflect the 'way it was'. Additionally, on the most well-preserved cars of that era, to my eye anyway, combinations of satin and semi-gloss blacks on various engine accessories, wire clamps/clips, battery trays, accessories, etc., produce the most original result. Water pump pulleys through mid-1946 were cast and painted engine color. Pump pulleys post mid-'46 thru '48 were stamped and were painted black. The impeller shafts on the water pumps were left unpainted. Water pumps themselves were painted the same color as the block - Ford blue - for this era. Gloss black looks phenomenal and makes a fully restored engine compartment to Concourse/Dearborn standards really 'pop' and look like a jewel. Mike Kubarth's '40s, some of which I have observed in person, are just too darned perfect in this regard for me to even want to drive - they are actually museum pieces they are done so well. I say this not only to compliment Mike's craftsmanship, but also to suggest to you to think about what you want to do with the car. If a shiny, reflective surface looks good to your eye and you are endeavoring in the long-run to go the full-restoration trailer queen route, and you intend on routinely dusting off surfaces and wiping everything clean to keep that 'just-off-the-showroom-floor' look, then perhaps gloss black is for you. If you want a driver, technically correct by the book engine compartment and also an original look that will not be questioned by any judges as being over-restored (or inconsistently restored overall) then perhaps combos of satin and semi-gloss black is the route you may wish to take. To specifically answer your question #1, in general your statement is correct for these years regarding cast versus stamped colors, although I have seen what appeared to be known original stamped crank pulleys on Rouge cars painted both blue and black and both were endorsed as correct by the judges. On that specific component suggest you contact the EFV8 Technical Advisor for this era. The untouched crank pulley on my '47, was found to be blue after cleaning the then 65 years or so of grunge off of it. You should obtain a copy of The 1941-1948 Ford Book as Chapter 5 and the book in general has very detailed information on your question and much more for these years and is a quality document. Steve
This message was edited by len47merc on 11-21-17 @ 5:11 AM
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42wagon |
11-21-2017 @ 3:45 AM
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Senior
Posts: 585
Joined: Oct 2009
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It has been my understanding that all castings were painted engine green and all sheet metal parts, including stamped pulleys would be black. It is also my understanding that the castings were painted prior to machining and that any paint on machined surfaces was machined off. Now that understanding may be a carry over from what was common practice during the Model A years but it makes sense when you consider how much labor would have been necessary to mask the engine for painting.
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Early46 |
11-20-2017 @ 4:28 PM
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Member
Posts: 18
Joined: Feb 2010
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A couple of questions, in restoring back to as Henry built it --- 1. How true is the "If it is cast it is engine color, if it is stamped (sheet metal essentially) it is black" ? Would a stamped crank pulley be black or engine color? 2. Anyone know where in the engine build sequence the engine was painted? This relates to over-spray and painting of machined surfaces. Do machined surfaces get masked or painted? Primarily looking as it would apply to a post war ('46) restoration Thanks!
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