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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Charging Question

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Discussion Topic: Charging Question -- page: 1 2 3

MGG

09-12-2017 @ 7:21 PM

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Epilogue: I decided to take a chance on a newer generator shop so I stopped in to talk to them. It sounded like they knew what they were talking about so I took in my generator and new Niehoff voltage regulator to see if they could adjust it. They did adjust it to 7.25 volts output and now my dash voltmeter goes up to and stays in the lower 1/3 of the green zone. At the end of my 10 minute runs, the battery has a full charge and I, my battery and voltage regulator are happy campers. Thanks to all and especially to TomO whose advice is always spot on.

TomO

09-03-2017 @ 8:12 AM

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Mark, your battery gauge is working properly. 7.2 Volts is the beginning of the green zone and that is where the gauge should be when driving. If it goes to the middle of the yellow zone or below, your generator is not charging the battery. If it goes into the right hand red zone, stop the engine and disconnect the generator before it destroys itself.

Tom

MGG

09-02-2017 @ 11:33 AM

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Conclusion:
I took my generator and 3 voltage regulators in to an old-time auto electric shop. Two of my three voltage regulators had a problem. The 1 good one was so close in voltage output that they did not recommend trying to adjust it. So, I installed it and ran the engine for 15 minutes this morning, and when I shut it off the battery was at full charge, per my maintainer. The volt meter only got to the edge of the green area and never quite into it. Since the battery is being treated fairly by the charging system, I am not going to mess with it anymore, and now move on to the next phase.

Thanks to all for the help. Mark G.

56MarkII

08-27-2017 @ 5:41 PM

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My digital multimeter is cheap offshore cr*p that jumps around like a rabbit but better meters WILL work and don't jump around. I have one that cost me $75 and it works very well but is unavailable because it is away where I work. An analog is fine as long as it is very accurate. Notice the fractional voltages quoted here by others? If your analog is a volt out plus or minus is the difference between boiling or undercharging the battery. Like you mine is steady when the engine isn't running but on a positive note I have an old Sun carbon pile style battery/electrical meter with an amp and volt meter and I placed both on the battery at the same time to verify accuracy of the Sun and it was spot on so I used it instead. I also test new regulator voltage settings as well and have had to readjust them to the 7.1-7.6 value. Verify your analog and test your new regulators. This should be done with a fully charged good battery for voltage. Voltage regulators are also thermal compensating using bimetallic springs and charge at a higher voltage cold than warm so your test should be done when this charging system has run for a while with the cover of the regulator carefully reinstalled if adjustments are necessary.

MGG

08-27-2017 @ 8:50 AM

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Ok, I will get to it hopefully this week some time. I should mention that the original V/R had 3, now petrified, rubber mounting grommets attached, and its own separate grounding wire. The newer V/Rs did not have either of these features. I mounted the V/Rs directly to the firewall after scratching the paint down to bare metal. Also, I placed a star washer at each mounting screw between the firewall and V/R. As Ford did in later years, I installed a #12 ground wire from the grounding stud on the generator to the closest V/R mounting screw.
Questions:
1. Why would I obtain the same charging result with both the Filco and Niehoff regulators. Strange coincidence?
2. Did someone along the line determine that the rubber mounting grommets were unnecessary?

TomO

08-27-2017 @ 5:17 AM

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No, you did not goof up on the polarization process. Polarization just makes sure that the generator is charging in the same polarity (Positive ground) as the battery.

I cannot recommend any further tests, other than bringing the voltage regulator to a generator shop. They do not need a Ford Test Bench to check them out, they already have the precision equipment to use on the alternators and generatord that they service.

Tom

MGG

08-26-2017 @ 9:44 PM

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This is what I did today: Disconnected the battery, installed the Filco V/R (Anybody know anything about that brand?), hooked up the wires to the new regulator except for the center (field) wire, re-hooked the battery, touched the field wire to the battery terminal to polarize the system, unhooked the battery, attached the field wire to the V/R, re-hooked the battery, and started the engine.
There was no change to the results that I had with the other (new Niehoff) V/R. Did I goof-up the polarization process?
Not sure what I will do next. I guess I will take the Generator and V/R to a shop that has a Ford Test Bench. Thanks - Mark G.

TomO

08-26-2017 @ 5:04 PM

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Be sure to disconnect the battery when you change regulators.b

Tom

MGG

08-25-2017 @ 7:53 AM

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The V/R is a new one, Niehoff brand. I have another good used one (Filco), I will install to see if it makes any difference. Thanks

TomO

08-25-2017 @ 7:22 AM

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You can replace the voltage regulator with a new one, but I would find a shop that re-builds generators and alternators and have them adjust your voltage regulator. It is not a good idea to try to adjust the regulator without the proper equipment. You can destroy your generator.

Tom

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