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Discussion Topic:
Best Wheel Bearing Grease
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sarahcecelia |
08-06-2017 @ 7:35 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1193
Joined: Mar 2013
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Repacking front wheel bearings is about as silly as taking your spark plugs out and putting them in different holes to make the motor run better. NEW wheel bearings need to be packed and installed with the right tension on them, and then forgotten until one goes bad at 80, 0r over 100 thousand miles. I talked to a guy, that came to install a window in my new aliminum lift building yesterday, about when he had his wheel bearings packed on his Later model (2000+) Ford pickup. He said he has 70 some thousand miles on it and has NEVER HAD THEM RE-PACKED. Does that tell you something???
Regards, Steve Lee
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sarahcecelia |
08-04-2017 @ 3:08 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1193
Joined: Mar 2013
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Repacking Front wheel bearings is a waste of time. The only reason garages and dealers do it is MONEY!! I had a 1950 Ford sedan when I was 18, put about 40,000 miles on it, and NEVER REPACKED the wheel bearings! I am 80 now, and never re-packed wheel bearings on any, of the many cars I have owned! The only reason that they fail is improper installation, or a flawed bearing (rare) from the factory! The grease is always there-Where can it go??? I worked as a mechanic for years, for several dealers, and when they said to "re-pack them," took grease from the inner hub (of the brake drum, it was full and doing nothing) and with my finger pushed some onto the rollers. I have (4) classics now, took the wheels off of each, just to check if the grease was there, put them back on and never touched them again, and I'll put my experience against anyone who wants to argue the point!! Let's hear it???
Regards, Steve Lee
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sarahcecelia |
08-04-2017 @ 7:45 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1193
Joined: Mar 2013
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I have used Molybdenum Disulfide (water proof) chassis grease on front wheel bearings for about 55 years.I worked for a VW dealership for about 10 years, and then Buick for about a year, and then owned my own Gas Station.That's all we ever used; and all the garages and dealers used it for front wheel bearings. It is not only waterproof, but high temperature, extreme pressure, multi purpose, and protects against wear. All the auto stores carry it. I have also used it on my own cars over the years, and never had a problem with wheel bearings that were adjusted properly and lubed with it. Google it, and find out for yourself.
Regards, Steve Lee
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sarahcecelia |
08-04-2017 @ 7:27 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1193
Joined: Mar 2013
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I have used Molybdenum Disulfide (water proof) chassis grease on front wheel bearings for about 55 years.I worked for a VW dealership for about 10 years, and then Buick for about a year, and then owned my own Gas Station.That's all we ever used; and all the garages and dealers used it for front wheel bearings. It is not only waterproof, but high temperature, extreme pressure, multi purpose, and protects against wear. All the auto stores carry it. I have also used it on my own cars over the years, and never had a problem with wheel bearings that were adjusted properly and lubed with it. Google it, and find out for yourself.
Regards, Steve Lee
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TomO |
08-03-2017 @ 6:44 PM
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Senior
Posts: 7256
Joined: Oct 2009
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Carcrazy, the grease that you chose is a great grease to use on modern cars, but it did not work very well in my 40 or my friends 40. Until recently, I drove my 40 about 3,000 miles a year on local roads and highways at speeds up to 60 mph. I am getting old and do not travel as much as I did before. I used that grease about 15 years ago to pack the bearings in a friends car and my own. On my car, I repacked the bearings after 2 years and saw some signs of it leaking past the seal, so I repacked mine with Sta-Lub SL3131 and have had no problems with it. I like to take the drums off every couple of years, just to make sure that every thing is OK and repack my bearings at that time. The SL3131 looks clean and I do not have any traces of grease outside of the drums. My friend does not drive his car on the highway or for distances more than 50 miles round trip. He had brake problems this spring and when I pulled a wheel, there was grease on the backing plates and shoes. I think that the disc brake grease migrates past the seal, because it is thinner and not as sticky as the SL3131. I strongly suggest that you reconsider your choice and go with the grease that is closer in properties to the original grease used by Ford. The SL3131 has better lubricating properties than the 1940 grease but it is just as sticky.
Tom
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len47merc |
08-03-2017 @ 1:41 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1165
Joined: Oct 2013
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carcrazy - no one, including me, answered your repacking interval question. Regardless of your selection of greases, for which I and others have stated an endorsement, suggest you pop a front wheel hub off at 1,000 miles and see what you've got. If comfortable keep on gettin' it, if not, repack them all. After using the 3131 on all 4 wheel bearings and performing my own data collection exercise by checking them at 1,000 mile intervals up to 5,000 miles (2+ years of driving the '47) without repacking I can say that I'd have been comfortable continuing on with them further but for peace of mind I asked myself why not simply repack them. I don't drive the car more than 2,500 miles/year, usually just to local events or for Sunday drives of less than an hour so no extraordinary heat concerns. In prepping though for the drive to Gettysburg last year the bearing grease only had 2,000+ miles on it but for my peace-of-mind, knowing I had a 1,000 mile round trip ahead, some of it at extended 55-60 mph runs at potentially (and ultimately what turned out to be actual) 95 degree+ temps, I cleaned and repacked them all. Overkill? Probably, but I didn't even think about the bearings on the drive so it was worth it to me. Perform your own data collection exercise at whatever interval you are comfortable with and when you reach your own peace-of-mind set point you have your own answer you can take to the bank. EDIT - recall also that the 10,000 mile number was based on an estimate of the miles to be driven/year at the time. Our EFV8's typically do not see near the miles/year likely estimated back in the day, so there is a TIME element to the change frequency for all lubricants as well. Hypothetical and facetious question to make the point: Would you repack the bearings on a car that had sat for 30 years even though the repacked bearings were known to have only 1,000 miles on them? Hence, this is a call you will have to make for your vehicle, your driving habits, and your chosen lubricant. Fwiw. Steve
This message was edited by len47merc on 8-3-17 @ 1:53 PM
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carcrazy |
08-03-2017 @ 1:25 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1674
Joined: Oct 2009
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After doing some investigations of the various wheel bearing greases available, I have decided to use Valvoline Ford-Lincoln-Mercury Moly-Fortified Multi-Purpose Grease. It is to be used for Disc Brake Wheel Bearings, Steering Linkage, Chassis, Suspension, and Universal Joints. It features extreme high temperature protection, 0 to 375 degrees F. It is an NLGI #2 Grade Lithium Complex EP Grease that meets Ford M1C75B, ASTM D-4950 and MACK MG-C Long Life Performance Requirements. It features the NLGI's ratings of GC for best wheel bearing grease and LB for best chassis lubricant. It is also compatible with drum brakes.
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TomO |
08-03-2017 @ 7:32 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7256
Joined: Oct 2009
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I would not use chassis lube in any wheel bearing. Use the SL3131 for longer bearing life and stick to the original specs for repacking the bearings.
Tom
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len47merc |
08-03-2017 @ 6:32 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1165
Joined: Oct 2013
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Drbrown's recommendation of SL3131 is on the mark. NAPA (among others) carries and/or can order it for you. Also Amazon.
Steve
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sarahcecelia |
08-03-2017 @ 6:22 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1193
Joined: Mar 2013
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Regular old "Chassis Grease. "You can buy a small can in the auto parts store.
Regards, Steve Lee
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