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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 1940 Pickup Fuel Pump

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Discussion Topic: 1940 Pickup Fuel Pump -- page: 1 2

TomO

07-27-2017 @ 6:48 AM

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You will not be able to order a new correct 1940 fuel pump from anybody. They are not reproduced. There are no correct reproductions of fuel pumps. If you intend on having your truck point judged on the Concourse at an EFV-8 National meet and do not want to take a point deduction for the fuel pump, you will have to have a correct fuel pump rebuilt. If you do not care about losing the 4 points a wrong fuel pump will cost on the Concourse, buy a new pump.

The only source, that I know of, listing the pump without the glass sediment bowl is Speedway Motors.

Tom

40 Coupe

07-27-2017 @ 5:22 AM

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I also suggest you contact Charlie have him rebuild your pump or see if he has a 40 style.

ken ct.

07-26-2017 @ 5:56 PM

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Either one will most likely send you a China made pump ugg. Get a rebuilt original from me or Charlie NY on the ford barn. omo ken ct.

gcraigstep

07-26-2017 @ 10:52 AM

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Thanks Tom

Nice line up of Fuel Pumps. It looks like I have the 47-48 fuel pump on my 40'. I think I'll order one from Mac's or Carpenter's.

ken ct.

07-26-2017 @ 7:55 AM

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Tom ,is 95% correct except for the pump on the right 49-53 is a composent pump top section ok ok but base section is from a 34 to 46 as it is the short mount. 49 up have a much taller one than older ones and have 1/8" pipe thread for inlet an outlet. Thanks for the pics Tom as I cannot do them. ken ct.

TomO

07-26-2017 @ 7:31 AM

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Here are photos of the fuel pumps used between 1933 - 1953. The pump labeled 1932-1936 was first used in 1933.

The pumps used between 1933 and 1940 all had the outlet port about 1/2" lower than the input port, the 41-46 had the ports at the same level and had tabs on the sediment bowl cover. The 1947 fuel pump started the use of a glass sediment bowl. Any of the 1936 -1948 fuel pumps will work on your 1940 engine.

If you have a vacuum gauge, connect it to the input of the pump and crank the engine. The pump should develop 10 inches of vacuum and take about 1 minute to leak down. If you don't have a vacuum gauge, I would buy one. They are very useful in setting the idle and for trouble shooting problems.

Sources for vacuum leaks on the input side of the pump are: sediment bowl gasket, warped sediment bowl cover, leaky flex line and connections that are not secure. If the pump does not develop vacuum, the cause could be the diaphragm or a worn push rod. If it loses vacuum to rapidly, the cause could be the input valve.

Do not replace the flex hose on tthe input to the fuel pump with a rubber hose and hose barb with a spring clamp. That setup leaks 99 out 100 times.

Tom

07-25-2017 @ 4:36 PM

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ken ct. has the parts you need....

gcraigstep

07-25-2017 @ 3:48 PM

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If Charlie Schwendler rebuilds fuel pumps where does he get his parts?

gcraigstep

07-25-2017 @ 3:44 PM

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I already tore it apart and cleaned up the insides. I isolated the pump by disconnecting the line to the tank. I checked for pressure by sucking and blowing into the pump. Seemed to hold air pressure so I hooked up a fuel hose to a gas can inside the engine compartment with 2 feet of fuel hose and it would not lift any fuel. Is the picture I posted the correct fuel pump for that year?

kubes40

07-25-2017 @ 3:42 PM

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If originality is not important to you, I might suggest you send your pump off to Charlie Schwendler. He does great work and always tests his workmanship prior to shipping.
If originality is important, let me know, I have some rebuilt pumps here. They are concourse correct for your pump and yes, they've been professionally rebuilt and tested.

Mike "Kube" Kubarth

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