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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 53 OD

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Discussion Topic: 53 OD

Greg58

06-25-2017 @ 11:36 AM

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The guide is for the basic repair and operation of the overdrive transmission not specific to any one car. Its for basic knowledge for us that have never owned one. I have read most of it and found a lot of good info that I haven't found anywhere else. Page 3 tells that this is basic info, yours may be a little different.

Greg

This message was edited by Greg58 on 6-25-17 @ 11:43 AM

deluxe40

06-25-2017 @ 9:38 AM

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The arm on my '51 Ford is in the "up" position. I think the overdrive in the pictures is for a different car.

sarahcecelia

06-25-2017 @ 7:54 AM

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I have a 1950 Ford with overdrive. Question? The overdrive book that you provided shows the lockout arm (That is operated by the dash mounted cable)in the down position on the transmission. Mine is in the up postion which I thought was proper; but if it is in the up positon and supposed to be down, when the cable is pushed in on the dash, the Overdive would locked out. If it is supposed to be mounted in the down position, when the dash control is pushed in it would be in overdrive and when dash control is pulled it would be out of overdrive. Is that operating arm supposed to be mounted on the transmission in the up or down postion on my 1950 Ford sedan??? Thank you for your answer. If you need to talk to me personally, Steve 352 666 9916 EDST

Regards, Steve Lee

jimbomac

06-24-2017 @ 7:54 AM

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Thanks, Greg! Forwarding this to my restoration shop

Greg58

06-24-2017 @ 6:16 AM

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Here's everything you need to know about the o.d., I'm working on one for my 50.

http://www.studebakerclubs.com/NorthGeorgia/Overdrive.pdf

Greg

carcrazy

06-23-2017 @ 7:38 PM

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The solenoid may be the problem. If it was ever taken apart and put put back together without careful attention being paid to the internal moving member, it is possible for it to ground out the ignition when the overdrive attempts to energize. This is easy to check with an ohmmeter - if you check the continuity between solenoid terminal #6 (the wire that goes to the kickdown switch) and the ground (case of the solenoid) when the solenoid is off, the circuit should be open. If it is grounded, the ignition will be shorted out when the O/D attempts to energize. The fix is easy, remove the movable member from the solenoid and re-index it 180 degrees so the metal part of it doesn't touch the inside of terminal #6. Please let us know if this fixes the problem.

40cpe

06-23-2017 @ 5:27 PM

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I think you are right to suspect the solenoid trying to engage. If it doesn't engage there is a high amp draw and maybe leaving the voltage at the ignition lacking.

shogun1940

06-23-2017 @ 5:05 PM

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I would put a vacuum guage on it while driving ,, 18 -20 inches at idle and maybe 16 driving on a level road. It's place to start.it cold be running out of gas also.

jimbomac

06-23-2017 @ 4:42 PM

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I have a 1953 Sunliner that is at the end of a 3 yr frame off restoration by a very reputable restoration shop. They are not OD experts, though. The car has been completely rewired, all of the OD components bench tested, the engine rebuilt and dyno run without problem. The problem is that the engine begins to miss and cut out and loose power under load at about 27-28 mph- right when the OD should be trying to engage. I suggested to them that they lock out and disconnect the OD wiring and then road test the car, which they plan to do this Monday- if that solves the cut out and rough operation, does anyone have any suggestions what the problem is? Wired wrong? Short in the relay or solenoid? Governor problem? Thanks for any suggestions!

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