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Discussion Topic:
59 A Hot Rod Engine - fuel air issue
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supereal |
04-17-2010 @ 3:27 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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Most digital cameras produce a huge sized photo, too large a file for most sharing. If you have a "photoshop" program, such as Adobe, reduce the size to less than a full ordinary page (8X10) and use the "export file format" to transfer them to JPEG compressed format, and store as a file. If you want to attach the photo to the Forum, click on "browse", select the file, and just click on "open". It is simple, and can be done with photos, scans, etc.
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37RAGTOPMAN |
04-17-2010 @ 8:55 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1965
Joined: Oct 2009
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DEUCEMAN on the pictures you have to download to you computer on a photo program this should have come with the camera, [ you can either use a USB port with a cable and if you computer has a media card port you can use that also,] it will ask you were do you want to store them, you have to put them in a folder, PUT a name on folder it were you can find later on, on uploading to this web site, it says browse, you pick the photo out of you folder you gave a name to and will up load and post the pictures for you, once you do it, it will get real easy, hope this helps,37RAGTOPMAN , TIP use the E-MAIL MODE on the camera,when taking the picture,.it might be not as good, but will upload easier, later on you can try more pixles for a better picture, but e-mail is pretty good,
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supereal |
04-17-2010 @ 7:57 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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If your transmission tends to jump out of gear, usually second, almost always it is due to a bad bearing, either at the end of the case or inside the cluster. Occasionally we find that the tranmission input shaft is a bit off center due to a mismatch between the engine and transmission. Also, be sure that the forks and detents are in good condition, and the linkage is properly adjusted. The type of oil doesn't affect staying in gear.
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39 Ken |
04-17-2010 @ 5:24 AM
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Member
Posts: 380
Joined: Oct 2009
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I think RandyP nailed part if not all of your problem. The air cleaners of today are manufactured "Off shore" and are too restrictive. As mentioned, K&N filters are the way to go. Also, you shouldn't be using 600 weight oil for anything except to re-coat your asphalt driveway. Drain it and replace with a 140 weight, GL-4 gear oil. It is heavy enough to not leak much(all Fords leak some) and is the proper lubricant for your trans and differential. This is a normal weight for warm weather driving. Use 90 wt if you're driving in cold weather. I use Sta-Lube 140, GL-4 that is available thru NAPA. Just my opinion. Ken
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DEUCEMAN |
04-16-2010 @ 4:53 PM
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Member
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Joined: Jan 2010
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SORRY NOT TO GET BACK TO YOU GUYS SOONER, BEEN TRAVELING ON BUSINESS. LAST NIGHT I GOT BACK INTO MY GARAGE, CHANGED THE OIL AND FILTER, SOME OTHER SPRING MAINTENCE. I WOULD POST A PICTURE OF MY HIBOY AND ENGINE, IF I KNEW HOW? MY SON HAS A DIGITAL CAMERA, HOW DO YOU DO IT. I INCREASED MY FUEL PRESSURE TO 3 LBS, UP FROM 2, NOW I HAVE TO FIND OUT WHAT THE CARB REBUILDER USED FOR JETS. TIMING IS SPOT ON AND IT DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE RUNNING RICH. NO VACUUM ADVANCE, ONLY MECHINICAL. THIS ENGINE RUNS STRONG, PULLS LIKE A SMALL BLOCK, EXCEPT WHEN THE AIR CLEANERS ARE ON..SPARK PLUGS READ OK, COMPRESSION VERY GOOD.I HATE TO REMOVE THE CARBS AND SEND THEM BACK TO THE REBUILDER ONLY TO HEAR THEIR FINE.. I INTEND TO GO THROUGH EVERYTHING AGAIN TOMORROW. BY TH WAY DOES ANYONE KNOW WHAT IS THE BEST TRANS LUBE TO USE? I'M RUNNING A '39 BOX WITH LINCOLN 25 TOOTH GEARS, ALL SUPER INSIDE. SOME SAY SYNTHETIC, SOME SAY NO, THE OLD SYNC RINGS DON'T WORK WELL WITH THIN SYNLUBE AND THE TRANS WILL JUMP OUT OF GEAR AS WELL USING SYNLUBE. CURRENTLY I'M USING THE FORD 600 WT LUBE THAT HAS BEEN AROUND FOR EVER, BUT IF SYNLUBE IS BETTER, MAYBE. I'M USING THE 600 WT FORD LUBE IN THE REAR AS WELL, A 39 BANJO WITH 4:11 GEARS, AGAIN EVERYTHING IS NEW INSIDE OF THE REAR..
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supereal |
04-11-2010 @ 10:59 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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Sorry to be late with this info. The manifold shown is a vintage Edmunds piece. The carb is a 300cfm Holley with a mechanical secondary. You will note that the engine has the later "posthole" distributor, so vacuum for the advance is drawn from the carb. To fit the 4 bbl carb to the old manifold, we had to make an adapter. Flathead 4 bbl manifolds are available from a number of sources that will not require an adapter. The venturis in the 300 cfm carb are very small, allowing good low end performance. When at speed, the secondaries open when there is adequate manifold vacuum to to prevent swamping and loss of power as the carb capacity increases.
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supereal |
04-08-2010 @ 1:10 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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Here is another view.
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supereal |
04-08-2010 @ 1:07 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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I still haven't had time to look up the carb and manifold, but will do so ASAP. We have always used progressive linkage on multiple two barrel carbs to prevent too much intake all at once. I've attached a pic of the hot rod engine we built with the 4 barrel that works so well.
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37RAGTOPMAN |
04-08-2010 @ 12:42 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1965
Joined: Oct 2009
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hi DEUCEMAN I gave this some thought, and am diving in, you have reached maxium cubic inches, I think at high engine speeds with normal air cleaners does not let enough air into the engine,and restricts the air flow, causing it to act like or sort of a choking action,and runs rich and make the engine bog down, you said with air cleaners removed runs good, like the Randy before me said, you will probably need to run with K and N,AIR FILTERS or similar air filters,it would worth a try, CAN YOU POST A PICTURES of your 32 ? would be nice to see it, right guys,,,,,,,,,,, There is Nothing FINER then a DRESSED UP FLATHEAD FORD V8 hope this helps 37RAGTOPMAN
This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 4-8-10 @ 12:57 PM
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RandyP |
04-07-2010 @ 7:22 PM
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Member
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Joined: Jan 2010
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Baxter Ford told me that you have to run K & N air filter elements on the big cube motors, they are much less restrictive than regular paper elements.
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