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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Which head gasket to use with Aluminum heads

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Discussion Topic: Which head gasket to use with Aluminum heads -- page: 1 2

Stroker

01-22-2017 @ 5:11 PM

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I agree that "modern fuels" are not a happy combination on any flathead with high-compression heads installed.
I also agree that "aftermarket" aluminum heads were designed when we could still get decent high-octane "dinosaur-squeezing" derived gasoline.

What I don't agree with, is that quality aftermarket heads are somehow inferior to cast iron heads on a "street-driven" Ford V8 car. I ran Edelbrock's on my 38 for many-many years without a "hitch".

As an interesting "aside"; cast iron heads will actually make "more power", since heat IS energy, which is what pushes the pistons down, and turns the crank as they help hold heat in the combustion chamber.

The "original-idea" of both Ford and aftermarket suppliers was to help GET RID of heat, as our Flatmotors have an abundance of same thanks to Henry routing the exhaust system THROUGH the water jacket in the block.

carcrazy

01-20-2017 @ 5:11 PM

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My experience with using high compression aluminum heads on Ford Flatheads is that I have been unable to buy pump gasoline with a high enough octane rating to keep the engine from knocking on acceleration. The stock cast iron heads are best from a functional standpoint on a street-driven flathead in my opinion.

hotrodbob

01-20-2017 @ 11:01 AM

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Spoke to the assistant tech manager for Edelbrock about the head gasket and they do not recommend copper only with their heads. The gasket kit they sell is a fiber composite like the Felpro.

I understand the issues with modifications. My wife usually only drives short distances(less than 100 miles) with her car and it is not driven hard. The only changes so far are repainted and pin stripped, tuck n roll interior, 12v, headers and duel exhaust, reversed eye springs (lowered a couple of inches), 15 inch wheels and radial tires.

Oil pressure is 4o psi when driven at normal speeds (30-60 mph). and temp stays on the low side whenever it is driven even on the hot days. It has vapor locked a few times (hot days) and it has an electric fuel pump in the back as well as the stock pump on the engine. We will be adding a fuel pressure regulator and electronic ignition along with the heads and intake. I will have 2 x 94's on the new intake. Nothing radical will be done. She just loves to cruise her car, but wants it to have a hot rodded look as well.

A new question came up about the fan belt. Does anyone know what belt to use when you move the generator to a head mount position (needed to clear the front carb)?

Hotrodbob,
Anyone can restore a classic, but it takes a hotrodder to cut one up and make it cool.

TomO

01-19-2017 @ 9:04 AM

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Just remember when you modify something from stock, you will have to develop different troubleshooting techniques. You will have to take into consideration the changes that you made and the effect that they have on how your car performs.

Aluminum heads can affect cooling in both a positive way and a negative way. They can affect engine noise and may have an effect on the charging system and oil filtering.

Hotrods can be cool or they can be a pile of junk rolling down the road. A restored car by definition is a good looking and good running car.

Tom

hotrodbob

01-17-2017 @ 8:30 PM

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Nothing changed that can't be unbolted or reupholstered. Now my coupe is another story... but it's not a Ford, so who cares.

Hotrodbob,
Anyone can restore a classic, but it takes a hotrodder to cut one up and make it cool.

len47merc

01-17-2017 @ 4:26 PM

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"Anyone can restore a classic, but it takes a hotrodder to cut one up and make it cool. "

Hmmm.......

Nice '46! Very 'cool' car! Continuing to spread the gospel here - as the saying goes - 'It's only original once!'.

Steve

hotrodbob

01-17-2017 @ 4:23 PM

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Just started reading up on the engine. Have two books. One from Vern Tardell & Mike Bishop and the second from Tony Thacker. Our '46 has the original engine so I guess this is the mid range 24 stud.

Hotrodbob,
Anyone can restore a classic, but it takes a hotrodder to cut one up and make it cool.

hotrodbob

01-17-2017 @ 3:31 PM

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Great info. Thanks. The heads are brand new with the script letters. The engine is a stock '46 Ford with 60K miles on the car and we are in So Cal, so freezing is not an issue. Not sure how to tell if it is a late or early style

All water passage holes in the heads are round.

Didn't know about the Copper head gasket recommendation. I did get a stud kit from Speedway Motors and the offset generator mount. We will be adding a 2 carb Edelbrock intake as well once we have the carbs.

Not sure how to tell the difference be tween an early or late "center-outlet" 24 stud Block

Hotrodbob,
Anyone can restore a classic, but it takes a hotrodder to cut one up and make it cool.

Stroker

01-13-2017 @ 12:06 PM

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Hot Rod: IF..the engine is indeed a 46-48 then you "can" use the 7548 B.

The 7283 B is for the late 38 to 42 block.

The "difference" is in the layout of the coolant holes between the center cylinders. The gasket should "match" this layout.

Either one will "work"; but for best cooling, use the gasket that matches the holes. ALSO..are these "new" Edelbrock's or "vintage" early Edelbrocks? There are some differences there as well. The "early" ones have "EDELBROCK" written on the top in block letters, and the newer ones have the Edelbrock "Script" logo.

If your heads don't have the large early-style square holes, then you can use either design of gasket.

I might point out however, that Edelbrock recommends only using COPPER gaskets. The Felpro numbers you quoted are for "fiber-faced". gaskets.

I would recommend: Felpro HS 7548 B (copper, 3 large irregular water holes on centerline), Fel-Pro #HS 7283 (copper, 2 small round water holes on centerline) depending on which Edelbrock heads (old or newer), and whether you have the early or late "center-outlet" 24-Stud block.

Stroker

01-13-2017 @ 12:06 PM

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Hot Rod, I hope the above helps with your gasket choice. You "also" should consider using some of Roy Nasewicz's #M-90-04 studs in place of the "originals", if you are using a pair of the old "Thick" Edelbrock's, as some of these require slightly longer studs if you want full thread engagement of the nuts. Roy's studs are domed like the originals, and have "rolled-threads" like the originals. ONE MORE THING...I don't know whether you live in a "freezing-climate"; but if you don't, fill the cooling system with distilled water,along with some rust-inhibitor and water-pump lubricant added; as this will prevent electrolysis from making your Edelbrock's "go-away". If you are subject to freezing, just make up a 50/50 mix of quality anti-freeze using DISTILLED water.

This message was edited by Stroker on 1-13-17 @ 1:18 PM

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