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Discussion Topic:
1937 Ford Mechanical Brake Restoration
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supereal |
01-20-2017 @ 1:17 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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The maximum recommended limit above the 12" diameter is .060. Because drums are hard to find, and expensive, many have been turned beyond the recommended amount. The place that will turn the drums can easily measure the current diameter, as I earlier.mentioned. Arcing or grinding the shoes must be done very carefully. If you can't locate a brake shop that can do it, look for a shop that does trucks. In this age of disc brakes, trucks and trailers still use drums and shoes.
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V8 Doc |
01-20-2017 @ 12:50 PM
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Member
Posts: 13
Joined: Nov 2009
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I now have user manual for Model 880 Ammco grinder to true the radius of the shoe to the drum radius. How much over 12" can a 1937 Ford drum be before it shouldn't be used? My Ford '37- '38 Engine and Chassis Repair Manual says not over 0.01" - does anyone disagree with this number? Drum gauge is available to me. In one of my old Times issues I located a quoted bulletin from Ford Co. that all hubs should be either two or one piece on same car. Not sure what to do with that info now. I do know that the braking surface part of the two piece drums is of a different metal than the other part. I would be happy to purchase a "gap gauge" for the concentricity testing. Anyone know of another way to gauge this than using a dummy drum? Appreciate any assistance.
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V8 Doc |
01-06-2017 @ 12:22 PM
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Member
Posts: 13
Joined: Nov 2009
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Thanks - a guru now dead helped with my '37 Ford Roadster brakes so I am only familiar with the process. He gave me his shoe grinding machine, but I don't have use instructions. Wish I had his concentricity tool for this '37 Ford Conv. Sedan restoration.. Will get the manual from C&G. Any advice about how to get the eccentric anchor pin back in the backing plate properly adjusted/oriented? With all clearances to be the same between the drum and shoe surfaces, is it the varying spring pulls that allows the primary shoe to apply first??
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supereal |
01-02-2017 @ 1:01 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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As long as the drums are the same diameter, the hub type won't matter. If the drums are in poor condition, they may be skimmed on a brake lathe, but don't turn them much beyond 12" inside diameter. Replacement drums are expensive, if you can find them. 37-38 Fords used the cable brakes only those two years. They can be tricky to work on, and to adjust properly. If you haven't done it before, it is good idea to get a shop manual.C&G (800/266-0470) has a good one for 32-41, V224. As for linings, we use the woven type on mechanical brakes 48-2018-W as they usually provide better braking.
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V8 Doc |
01-02-2017 @ 11:45 AM
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Member
Posts: 13
Joined: Nov 2009
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I'm redoing '37 Ford brakes with NOS internal parts. Should all hubs be either one piece or two piece - no mixing of types? Should I replace all shoe linings- if so is woven or molded better and can rears be one type lining and the fronts the different type lining? Is grinding really necessary? I don't want to use the floaters that Alan referred to last year and have NOS [marked .10] wedges. I'm finding it hard to get the NOS wedges to center in their housing. Will they automatically center when shoes and their springs are applied?
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