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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 37 door locks and installation

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Discussion Topic: 37 door locks and installation

1937sedandelivery

11-28-2016 @ 8:08 PM

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Hey, thanks 40 Coupe, most helpful.
I will try Drakes, that vaguely rings a bell. It is a tight area to work in.
I will probably end up buying the more generic 48-702302 lock and making it work.
Gregg

40 Coupe

11-28-2016 @ 3:53 PM

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The difference between many of the Hurd door locks from 33-37 & the locks you need is the length of the square drive at the rear of the cylinder. The 35-6 restoration book sold by this V8 Club list the pillar lock 48-785632 as 3 5/16" long from the end of the square drive to the back of the head of the lock cylinder (surface against the door paint) The restoration book does not list the length of the rear door lock, but it appears to be slightly shorter than the door lock. Try measuring the length you need for both. A lock with a shorter drive can be lengthen or shortened by welding or cutting.
Sounds like you may have done a bit of damage drilling out the old locks. As you will find out finding exactly the correct lock cylinders is going to be a long and costly process. Not to mention repairing any damage done to the inside of the door that holds the lock in place. I have had many Ford lock cylinders without keys, rekeyed to work as original. At one time Bob Drake reproductions sold the 1940 door internals that hold the lock into the door. I believe they would work to repair your doors. Look this repair over since the door internal parts may be spot welded to the inside of the door and the door skin.

1937sedandelivery

11-27-2016 @ 12:44 PM

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Hi, thanks for the quick response and help.
I did drill out the entire lock (after breaking off a bit in the small set screw). Good to know the orientation of the lock. I think I am getting it. There is a small opening in the door that I recall provided access to the set screw. That whole piece with the set screw etc. is gone on mine. I will have to jury rig something. But now I understand why the flat side of the lock points to the rear (access hole).
I posted a classified ad for the original locks, will see if I get any hits, hope so.
Gregg

nelsb01

11-27-2016 @ 12:13 PM

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If you look at the lock that you removed -- it should have one side that is flat. That is the side that goes toward the back of the vehicle, so that the small screw (or allen head) screws against to keep the lock in place. So, this also means that if you look at the door edge there should be a small hole in line with the lock opening in the side of the door.

Not sure what you mean when you say that you drilled out the lock --- to me that means that you drilled out the small screw that held in the lock assembly. Now, if you actually did drill out the lock assembly, look for your small hole in the side of the door -- the small screw may still be there.

Sorry I can't help you with the lock assembly -- but they should be similar to other year vehicles and with some adapting, you may get one to work.

1937sedandelivery

11-27-2016 @ 10:22 AM

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Hello, I had to drill out my passenger side door lock some time ago and have misplaced whatever it was that held it in place. I am about to buy new door locks (RH and rear) and want to make sure I can properly install/mount them. How is the RH lock held in place? Pictures would be a huge help. If there is a retainer/clip or ?? , what is the part number and where can I purchase it?

BTW, the correct lock p/n's are 48-732302 & 48-785632 for the RH side and rear, respectively. I can't find these anywhere??? I can find a more generic one, pn=48-702302 which probably fits, but I am trying hard to restore with stock p/n's.

Thanks for any and all help,
Gregg

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