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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / '39 Won't Start

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Posted By Discussion Topic: '39 Won't Start -- page: 1 2     TomO 04-04-2010 @ 9:46 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7256 Joined: Oct 2009 To remove the starter you should disconnect the battery, disconnect the lead from the solenoid at the starter, remove the bolt from the oil pan that holds the bracket that supports the front of the starter and then loosen the 2 through bolts enough to disengage the bolts from the oil pan. I would work on the bolts alternately and jiggle the starter loose, so you can tell when the bolts are free of the oil pan. These bolts also hold the starter together. When you handle the starter, try not to separate the front plate from the case. If you have engine pans on your car, you may have to loosen them and move them out of the way of the starter. If the starter parts separate, you can get the commutator back under the brushes by pulling the brushes and springs back until the spring rests on the side of the brush. Then assemble the starter and push the brushes towards the commutator until the spring can exert pressure on the brush. Examine the starter drive for contamination. If there is none, you should replace the spring or the drive assembly. Tom supereal 04-04-2010 @ 9:15 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 The starter is heavier than you might expect, and usually slippery with an oil coating. Hold on tight as you remove it, and don't put your head below it! 40guy 04-03-2010 @ 4:58 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 270 Joined: Oct 2009 Unless you have a lift taking the starter off is a little awkward but not difficult. Don't forget about the tab that hangs from an oil pan bolt. The top starter bolt goes through it to hold up the starter. Glad to hear also that you got the car running. 39Fordfan 04-03-2010 @ 1:59 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 202 Joined: Oct 2009 Thanks for all the help guys! I double checked all of my connections. I popped new plugs in it. I gave it a small prime and it started on the first turn. I think I over did the MMO down the plug holes and into the carb. this winter. I havn't had any trouble in past Spring starts but I squirted some MMO down the carb. this year. So on the issue with the starter, is there anything I should know before I take it off to inspect the drive? supereal 04-03-2010 @ 7:22 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 If the starter drive is erratic, it may be that it has become gummed up with oil, not an unusual situation. All starter drives and starter motor shafts should be clean and dry when installed. 40guy 04-02-2010 @ 6:54 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 270 Joined: Oct 2009 It could be that you have a weak spring on the starter drive. I would take the starter off and have a look at the drive gear for a missing tooth/teeth. For the starter to 'cut out' as you say is not unusual, but to have to work with it to get it to engage could be a problem with the drive. If worse comes to worse the starter is not difficult to rebuild yourself. 39Fordfan 04-02-2010 @ 3:24 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 202 Joined: Oct 2009 ...A couple of more things. I have an electric fuel pump which has always been good for getting the carb primed. Though I will go ahead and prime it as you guys suggested. I put new battery cables on it only a season and 1/2 ago with a ground to the body for extra measure. Is it possible they would've gone bad this fast? The starter spins at normal speed. What I mean by the starter "cutting out" is to say it will continue to spin as long as I hold the starter button. But it seems to disengage after a few spins. Sometimes I have to turn it over a few times to get it to reengage. Am I in need of a new starter, or worse? The spark plugs are pretty black and sooty, so I'll get some new ones and try them out too. Thanks for all of the help! I'll keep you posted... TomO 04-02-2010 @ 7:05 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7256 Joined: Oct 2009 I would try a new set of spark plugs. MMO has probably fouled your plugs, preventing the spark from getting to the fuel. MMO does not burn very well and should be used in small amounts in the combustion chamber. Tom supereal 04-02-2010 @ 6:58 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 If the car won't start using a shot or two of starting fluid, it is likely that ignition is at fault. That is shown by the sooty plugs and the rapid cranking. As you mention that your starter "cuts out", I suspect you have a poor connection at one or both battery posts, or a faulty cable that is dropping much of the necessary voltage to start and run. This is often hidden corrosion where the cable meets the clamp, which can occur during storage. At 6 volts, it doesn't take much loss to prevent operation. Before you start tearing into the carb or other parts, find the cause or you will likely cover it up, making repair even more difficult. Pauls39 04-01-2010 @ 8:04 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 81 Joined: Oct 2009 I agree with all the 40guy has mentioned. Your power valve may be leaking do to an improper fit with the gasket surface. The last V-8 Times had an article on removeing the step from the power valve surface to make it seal. Sooty plugs are an indication things are too rich. A leaking power valve might be the cause. It will also drain your carb if it sits for a period of time. I would also take the top off your fuel pump and give it a prime. Be sure to replace the gasket to get a good seal on the pump. Clean your plugs or replace them if they are old.

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