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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / gear grind and no shifting

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MICHV8

10-17-2016 @ 11:17 AM

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I have a 34 with a rebuilt 37 flathead and it has very few miles since the rebuild. It runs great and the car has always run great. Today, I started it after a couple months of storage and there was an immediate “clunk” from somewhere near the clutch housing. I sat for a few seconds listening to the engine and it was fine, steady and strong. Well, when I tried to shift into reverse there was nothing but gears grinding and the same for 1, 2 and 3. I stopped the engine and tried to shift into any gear and could only get it into reverse. I got out and gave the car a hard nudge and was then able to move into 1, 2, and 3, but not reverse. I got out again and gave the car a hard nudge and was then able to move into reverse but not 1, 2, or 3. I started the car and the same gear grinding when trying to engage any gear. There is no throw-out bearing squeal, the clutch linkage looks the same as always and the car rolls easily in neutral. Any ideas on what the heck happened when I started it?

GK1918

10-18-2016 @ 3:27 AM

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sounds like the clutch disk is stuck either by moisture or grease. I had good luck
with holding clutch down put car in 1st then start it up jabbing the gas pedal
a few times, that usually frees it up. Just make sure the runway is all clear....

MICHV8

10-19-2016 @ 9:12 AM

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I tried your suggestion and here is an update:

The car is up on blocks with the tires 1 inch off the ground. The car starts in neutral, but won't shift...only grinds gears. It also starts easily in 1,2,3, and R and the wheels rotate in the correct direction and match engine speed. However, with the engine off and left in gear, both rear wheels rotate freely. I know there are a lot of smart people on this forum, so I’m hoping someone can point me in the right direction…

cliftford

10-19-2016 @ 11:23 AM

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With the engine off and in gear do the wheels rotate in opposite directions? If so that means nothing, they are turning through the differential gears. Since its on blocks, start it, in gear, let it warm up, hold the clutch down, and jab the brakes a few times. Sometimes getting the engine warm helps.

MICHV8

10-19-2016 @ 1:16 PM

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Rear wheels turned freely in both directions during the stuck clutch issue...However, I did let the engine warm up in 1st gear (how it was started) and I then gave it hard gas followed by by hard brake with the clutch in and after maybe 5 or 6 of this repetitions, I felt and heard a minor clunk and the car now shifts freely! Whew, good news, thanks a million to both of you for helping out. What is the best way to prevent this from happening? We have winter closing in and the car will be unavailable for much of anything. Should I leave it in neutral?

40cpe

10-19-2016 @ 1:56 PM

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Put your bumper up against a solid object, put the trans in gear, and slip the clutch for a few seconds to burn the rust, grease, etc, from the clutch. When you store it, make a block of wood to put between the clutch pedal in the down position and the dash, etc. This keeps pressure off the clutch disc and helps keep it from sticking again.

This message was edited by 40cpe on 10-19-16 @ 1:58 PM

MICHV8

10-19-2016 @ 2:19 PM

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40cpe...got it, I'll do it. Thanks! Photo of the grateful coupe from a few months ago

This message was edited by MICHV8 on 10-19-16 @ 2:19 PM

cliftford

10-19-2016 @ 3:26 PM

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When you put it away for the winter, take something like a short 2X4 and wedge it between the seat and clutch so that it holds about 1/3 of the way down, just enough to take the tension off the clutch disc. you may want to put something against the seat like a piece of cardboard to protect the upholstery.

cliftford

10-20-2016 @ 5:51 AM

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I guess I didn't see 40coupe's post before I wrote my last one. My apologies.

tommyleea

10-20-2016 @ 6:29 PM

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Does it shift through the gears without the engine running?

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