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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 36 Issues

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Posted By Discussion Topic: 36 Issues     alanwoodieman 10-14-2016 @ 8:29 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 868 Joined: Oct 2009 I use a wheel barrow bearing, 3/4" ID, clean the inside of the steering tube, push down the bearing and use a short length of rubber heater hose ( 1/2 ") on to put under steering wheel to hold in place, but half the tie the horn problem is a ground, at the top of the horn rod id a thin brass collar/bushing that provides the ground for the horn rod. these become worn and will not correctly ground out. I use a piece of brass shim stock wrapped around the horn rod and pushed into the steering shaft 36Flatback 10-14-2016 @ 6:51 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 15 Joined: May 2015 On my 36 there is a bushing in the steering column that is worn and allows for intermittent light and horn operation. If this is the case, the wheel has to come off and the center rod pulled. This can be a big undertaking as the steering column will have to drop from the dash and usually the steering box loosed to allow clearance for the rod to come out the top of the column. It is important not to bend the center rod or the lights will never work correctly. A replacement bushing is available, but some members of this form have replaced the bushing with a ball bearing, however I am not sure which or what bearing fits. Perhaps one of them will chime in with more and better information. There should be very little if any up and down or side to side play in the steering wheel, if so the bearing may be worn Dave C. runningon8 10-14-2016 @ 5:33 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 44 Joined: Oct 2016 Thank you, a lot good info! Always helps to get advice from people who have gone down the road before. 40 Coupe 10-13-2016 @ 6:24 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1679 Joined: Oct 2009 The wiring for the headlights is through the switch on the bottom of the steering box. Off, is straight up and down on the handle. Park is one click C.W., low beam is one click C.C.W. from off position and high is second click C.C.W. from off. Sometimes the steering box leaks oil into the switch this can gum up and prevent the electrical contacts from touching. If you remove the pipe plug from the top of the steering box you can check the oil should be up to the top. Suggest you use the positions a lot and see if you can get the contacts to work again. Of course it is best is to remove and clean the gummed up oil out. At the same time you could consider getting the horn to work through the original button since the wires for the horn are in the light switch also. The horn contact is the center spring loaded contact. It could be gummed up and not springing back into contact with the horn rod contact. The repair kit of the horn rod works very well, but is seldom needed. The temperature gauge should work well since it is mechanical and not electric. I have not seen them fail and become sporadic in operation. They are pricey. Make sure the coolant level in the radiator is about 1 1/2" from the top. So that it just covers the radiator core tubes. Before having the water pump rebuilt, make sure it is the proper pump for your engine. If Skip rebuilds it, it will have to be lubed and maintained. Fryers sells the entire new pump, that does not get lubed again. This message was edited by 40 Coupe on 10-13-16 @ 6:28 AM flatheadfan 10-12-2016 @ 11:31 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 450 Joined: Oct 2009 I can't speak for others but I have found the '35-'36 temp gauge hopeless. I still have it hooked- up (left water pump). However, I have an after-market hooked-up under my dash. It is attached to the right water pump. Tom randycapes417@yahoo.com 10-12-2016 @ 5:54 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 44 Joined: Oct 2016 Thank you, this helps. Any ideas on the temprature gauge issues? MG 10-12-2016 @ 10:40 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1261 Joined: Nov 2009 If the original horn wire is open/broken, you'll have to pull the light rod/tube out of the steering column as this wire for the original horn circuit runs inside the tube. More times than not the horn won't work due to a high resistance connection at the contact plate inside the housing. Replacement horn wire kits are available from most vendors. You'll find all of the lighting contacts in the housing at the bottom of the steering column as well. You'll see a bale clip securing the contact housing to the steering column. Pry the bale free and the housing will come free from the column. The housing is two piece and you'll have to twist it apart to gain access to the contact plate. Clean up the contacts first to resolve you lighting and horn issues. Needless to say, you'll have to undo the bypass horn wiring the previous owner made... Have your water pumps rebuilt by Skip Haney.... Contact info: George (Skip) Haney - 12168 Azure Court, Punta Gorda, Florida-33955....ph day 941 637 6698...Email skip@fordsrus.com This message was edited by MG on 10-12-16 @ 11:23 AM randycapes417@yahoo.com 10-12-2016 @ 10:12 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 44 Joined: Oct 2016 Have a few questions about my 36 sedan. I found the bypass horn button that the previous owner installed and the horns are working. I want to eventually have it working again through the steering column button. I have a couple other issues come up as I am getting into the car more. The parking lights work fine as well as the headlights in the first poisition (not sure which is hi beam, 1st or second position) however the 2nd position worked intermittingly and now they won't come on at all, the parking lights and 1st position still work. Is the contacts for the lights at the top of steering column inside car or at the bottom where a bunch of wires go in? I really hope to avoid pulling the light rod out of the column. Do the repair kits for horn button and lights work well? I If I can get to the contacts I can maybe clean them and problem solved. The temprature gage is of course liquid and it works intermittingly I guess I need to replace it but I have read that the replacements that are available aren't very good and it seems hard to read at night especially. I am wanting to install an analog gage maybe in a very inconspicuous place that looks period color if possable and also keep the original connected as well. Any idea who has an aftermarket 6 volt temp gage that looks period? Last question, the right water pump has a slight leak, I see different replacements but which is best to move more coolant through the system? I know these are a lot of question but this is all new to me and I enjoy tinkering on this old car but I also want to do thing the smart way and not the hard way! Thanks again!

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