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Discussion Topic:
1941 ford V8 truck transmission
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TomO |
02-18-2012 @ 8:05 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7256
Joined: Oct 2009
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Do not remove the cross-member. The transmission should come out the opening once you remove the universal joint.
Tom
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Stroker |
02-13-2012 @ 3:45 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1460
Joined: Oct 2009
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I would follow Super's instructions, and remove the U-joint. Do not attempt to remove the crossmember.
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joesautorepair |
02-13-2012 @ 1:51 PM
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Posts: 5
Joined: Feb 2012
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Here is the image.
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joesautorepair |
02-13-2012 @ 1:47 PM
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Member
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Joined: Feb 2012
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The torque tube is out, the seat is out, and the floor panel. I removed the trans mounts, The ujoint and plate. All the bolts on the bell housing are removed. There is a crossmember the mounts are supported by. The crossmember is riveted to the frame, and the trans won't clear the sheet metal when i lift it above the crossmember. I have a feeling that I need to remove the crossmember, but I would hate to remove the rivets as the frame has been restored. It almost looks like There would be plenty of clearance once I remove that crossmember. Check the image.
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supereal |
02-13-2012 @ 11:18 AM
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Senior
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Remove the bolt that secures the u-joint to the transmission output shaft, and take off the u-joint for extra clearance. Be sure to keep the spacer with the u-joint when you set it aside. Many times it is lost or forgotten. We leave the handle on the box with floor mounted shifters. It makes a good way to manage the transmission.
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TomO |
02-13-2012 @ 10:14 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7256
Joined: Oct 2009
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You are correct in that the transmission must be moved back about 6". The way that I did it it, is to jack up the motor so that the back of the transmission clears the floor tunnel for the drive shaft, then pull the transmission back. It helps if you remove the seat. There is a discussion in the General Ford Discussion that may be of help to you. http://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=4326
Tom
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joesautorepair |
02-13-2012 @ 7:49 AM
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I have removed the torque tube and the linkage. I also removed the shifter from the top of the trans. The mounts are loose. Now that I have done this it seems it should come through the hole in the floor, but I have no room to pull the trans back from the motor. It seems the shaft needs about 6" to disengage from the cluth. Am I right to assume this?
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Stroker |
02-10-2012 @ 4:17 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1460
Joined: Oct 2009
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Joe: If you have removed (I assume "rolled back" the axle/torque tube assy), basically all you need to do is to support the engine from below (a 2x8 under the oil pan), and remove the rear transmission mounts/capscrews holding the trans to motor and the clutch linkage. You can then lift the trans up, back and out from above, exposing the clutch. No need to pull the engine, unless you have other reasons to.
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joesautorepair |
02-10-2012 @ 3:34 PM
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Joined: Feb 2012
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Here is a picture of the truck.
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joesautorepair |
02-10-2012 @ 3:20 PM
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Joined: Feb 2012
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I have a 1941 ford truck V8 flat head, and am trying to find the best way to change the clutch. I have removed the torque tube and the panel inside. Looks like I may need to remove the engine. Can anyone tell me if this is what I have to do? Is there a good book that I can get that will help me with this? Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
This message was edited by joesautorepair on 2-10-12 @ 3:31 PM
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