Posted By |
Discussion Topic:
advice on buying a 50 f1
-- page:
1
2
|
|
bkewin |
12-13-2011 @ 5:08 PM
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 49
Joined: Dec 2011
|
Thanks I'll check out craigs list. Hadn't thought to do that. Prices sure vary from website to website. I hope some of these folks get what they are asking, jeese, not from me. I paid less for my first house. I ain't saying they are not worth those prices, I just can't afford those. Oh yeah rust and rheumatism neither one sleeps.
|
alanwoodieman |
12-13-2011 @ 9:55 AM
|
|
|
Senior
Posts: 868
Joined: Oct 2009
|
FYI- I live in SC and there have been several F1 series trucks for sale around here as of late. One for $5000 that just needed paint and some reassembly and another for $8500 that was a daily driver/older restoration-not sure how good but both trucks found a new home quickly. Check out Craigslist-seems to be where they are found these days
|
trjford8 |
12-13-2011 @ 8:13 AM
|
|
|
Senior
Posts: 4215
Joined: Oct 2009
|
There's an old saying "rust never sleeps"!
|
supereal |
12-11-2011 @ 9:05 PM
|
|
|
Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
|
You are welcome. Being careful, particularly on your first project greatly increases both the enjoyment and the likelihood the job will be finished. As for rust, there are lots of "rust converters" out there, but some can't be successfully painted. The best ones seem to come from Eastwood, such as the "rust encapsulator". If the rust can't be completely sealed, it will return. That is true of most frames where access is limited.
|
bkewin |
12-11-2011 @ 9:31 AM
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 49
Joined: Dec 2011
|
Thanks everybody, looks like the search continues. I think I could take on each of the things the truck wants other than depending on how extensive the rust turns out to be. Problem is i'd need to buy a truck to haul around all the stuff i'd need for this truck Thanks for all the good advice. I've learned a lot here. Bill
|
51f1 |
12-10-2011 @ 11:20 PM
|
|
|
Senior
Posts: 573
Joined: Oct 2009
|
Sounds like a candidate for a total restoration.
Richard
|
trjford8 |
12-10-2011 @ 8:07 PM
|
|
|
Senior
Posts: 4215
Joined: Oct 2009
|
In my opinion at $6200 I would keep right on looking for a better truck. Your description sounds like it needs a total rebuild from front to back. The rusted floor pan would definitely deter me and I'll bet there is rust that you cannot see some where in that cab. If you are new to this hobby I would be patient and look for truck that you can start driving now, not 5 years from now. It might cost you more money now, but it will save you lots of money and time down the road.JMHO
|
bkewin |
12-10-2011 @ 2:06 PM
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 49
Joined: Dec 2011
|
well, I never got around to looking at the title. for 6200 its probably a good buy for someone. Not sure if thats me. I'm 54 not 34. I think the panels are all original. uniform surface rust on the underside of everything but really pretty straight. a couple of dings and things that could be hammered out of the hood. Hood was best part. cab pretty solid the back corners... the seams were rusty and i'm not sure how to correct that. paint is ...well doesn't appear to be original color and needs a lot of work. Top right front and back corners of the cab had some amateurish hammer work. I'm amateur and would have done a hundred times better. Frame was surface rusty but solid. running board supports will last another 60 years. Boards could use a little hammer and sand, but not bad. Floor pan was gone really someone had cut the rusty parts out and then just laid in a replacement pan so far as I can tell. Pretty crudely done. original seats with two tone vinyl replacement cover. original jute/ burlap on the back and bottom only 1/4 rotten. Fenders, I got up in em and there was not a wrinkle to be found. plenty of surface rust but no wheres near thru. zero bondo . bed was dinged and banged up as you'd expect. doors had bondo, amatuer in the front bottom corners. doors closed but need rubber and latches rebuilt/replaced. no rear bumper. bed wood was solid but no end cap. at the back of the bed, the metal could use some work, cut away a bit rather than repaired, in the slots where the wood meets the side. drivers side door glass cracked. Only 1 wiper works. don't know enough to say if the broke one is aftermarket. newish rubber floor mat. newish composition (paper fiber?) fire wall mat. There was a wierd cut in the left side of the tranny crossmember. it looked like it had rusted thru, maybe a bad torch job? very weird as no where near enough rust to have caused that anywhere else. no headliner or anything. a radio mounted in the 60's but mounted in some kind of replacement speaker panel. no damage to the dash because of it. glove box tag in place but d*mn*d if I could make the number out. oh yeah, gas tank looked great. Mechanically, it started. it has an electronic fuel pump. mech pump still in place but I couldn't tell if the push rod was there or not. fuel filter at the carb. carb didn't seem to have ever been touched. Needs rebuild CARburaTER I'm guessing its a carter? holly half barrel maybe. sorry. beastie started. stock 239 aftermarket welded in line dual glasspacks. kick ass burble out back. really sweet. If she was a girl i'd have kissed her. took a while to start and an assist from a squeeze bottle of gas. didn't measure the vacuum but with the can off I had to hand choke her and she liked to suck my glove off. Momentary knocking at the back but once going she idled ok. took a while to get there though. 4 minutes of throttle games. Oil pressure hung in at 40 lbs cruising near 50. If this 3 speed is synchro'd either they are gone or all the juice is out of the box. classic double clutch job to keep from grinding, especially when trying to downshift. baby didn't like down shifting. She had brakes but they were a bit temperamental. first time they agreed to engage though only 1 of 4 was in the mood. This would not have been an issue if it hadn't cocked the front wheels 45 degrees left before the steering wheel reported that to me. Interesting little diversion into the far lane. tragic if we hadn't been 40 miles out of town on a 1 1/2 lane blacktop. I expected a little front end slop. I expected to put a g into brakes. I just didn't feel safe driving this beast home and that is the kind of thing I need. something I can drive home and make use of while I go about bringing her back or least stabilizing the decay. This truck is on hemmings in the f1 section. I didn't do a compression test but she motors along. speedo shot. all guages shot. probably since the 12 v conversion. dumb a$$. I'd give the guy 5 grand all day but he seems intent on 6. Am i Nuts? am i going to walk away from something i'll regret for the rest of my life? How do folks stabilize the rust? I've used tannic acid before an brake drums and things. turns a pretty black color and seems to lock rust in or de oxydize it. whatever it does. Is this stuff suitable for this undercarriage rust? how about for the sheet metal joins/seams etc? oh yeah, the rear main was shot, or at least thats what I'd say about any other v8. bottom of tranny covered in oil, motor oil. so front end rebuild, brake job. rear main, speedo all necessary, maybe a 9" axle aasy out back. stabilize the rust..... worth 6200? thanks, Bill
This message was edited by bkewin on 12-10-11 @ 2:15 PM
|
trjford8 |
12-09-2011 @ 6:50 AM
|
|
|
Senior
Posts: 4215
Joined: Oct 2009
|
The frame number on the F-1 will be on top of the right frame rail near the front crossmember. You should also find it on the metal tag on the inside of the glove box door.This tag is mounted withscrews, so it is missing on occasion.
|
bkewin |
12-08-2011 @ 12:40 PM
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 49
Joined: Dec 2011
|
wow thats good news. I only know what i've read about this and somewhere read there were no synchros on these. That'll make the wife happy as she'll want to drive it now. I'm going to take a look this saturday. I saw a real sweet looking one on ebay yesterday, just 5 miles up the road but I don't want to (can't) pay for a museum piece when what I want is something to run back and forth from the big box to the garden center and home. Thanks so much everbody for the good advice and encouragement. we are 30 minutes east of dallas. Fellow has a clean title but i'll be checking it against the frame and cab numbers. Apparently that frame number matters here. Bill
|