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EFV-8 Club Forum / Light Commercial Truck Discussion / '40 3/4 Tonner won't start

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Posted By Discussion Topic: '40 3/4 Tonner won't start

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a4ty4d
02-27-2011 @ 5:00 PM
Member
Posts: 4
Joined: Feb 2011
          
I have been trying to start my 1940 3/4 Tonner Express Pickup for several days and am at my wits end. When last I drove it it was with a fresh tune up and it was running well. It has been sitting idle for a while and now I want to get it moving again. I have a spark albeit a white spark. What should be my next approach? Clean all of the ground connections? Could old gas be a problem? Could the battery just be too weak? I have been repeatedly putting a charge on the battery but it seems rather sluggish when turning over. It is still the 6 volt positive ground system. Any thoughts?
John B.

ford38v8
02-27-2011 @ 8:46 PM
Senior
Posts: 2758
Joined: Oct 2009
          
John, Any car, antique or modern, that sits for a while can easily have a bad battery. If it cranks slowly, that shows that at the least, you have a weak battery. I would have the battery tested, and if it is bad, think seriously about an Optima to replace it. We here on the Forum should really get commissions for the number of times we recommend Optimas.

Alan

51f1
02-28-2011 @ 5:55 AM
Senior
Posts: 573
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Check the battery connections/cables from the battery to the starter and ground.

Richard

supereal
02-28-2011 @ 10:49 AM
Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
          
If you have a white spark, instead of a strong blue one. It is likely, as the others have said, that the battery is weak. Turn the headlights on for a few minutes, then check the battery volage across the poles. If the reading is less than 6.5 volts, it is time for a new battery. As said, many of us have switched to the Optima, which hold a charge almost indefinitely. If you accidently left the ignition on, it is likely the coil was cooked and/or the points burned blue. Substitute a known good battery to see if the engine will start.

37RAGTOPMAN
02-28-2011 @ 1:20 PM
Senior
Posts: 1958
Joined: Oct 2009
          
It might be also that the fuel system has lost its prime,and carb is dry,
did you try priming the carb with fresh gas ?
I have used a outboard fuel tank with the squeezze bulb to prime the engine to get it running,
hook it up to the fuel pump in side,you might have to make a fitting to attach fuel pump,this will out rule the fuel tank, once you have it running, you can hook the fuel system back up,
you can also jump it with 12 volts to get it running,
just use it for a few seconds,so you do not blow up the coil,
AUTOZONE sells a excellant 6 volt DURALAST battery for about $80.00,if you take care of it it should last 5 years,
and is a lot less sensitive to charging,like the optima,and you can but 2 of them for the price of one optima,,
using the truck more, or atleast starting it every few weeks, might help,
LETS HEAR HOW YOU MADE OUT, 37RAGTOPMAN

a4ty4d
03-01-2011 @ 6:32 PM
Member
Posts: 4
Joined: Feb 2011
          
Thanks for the input. All of your ideas are good and confirm what I suspect -- a weak battery. I have primed the carb well and the fuel pump is working. And I have been sniffing at Optima batteries for years now. But the Autozone special is more cost effective (I know, that point is debatable). I have one other question about the starter solenoid on the firewall. Could it be a factor in impeding voltage flow from the battery? I noticed that it now only allows the engine to crank for a few seconds when I press the button on the bottom. I have got to press very hard for it to even begin to crank and then it stop in about a second. But when I use the starter button in the cab it cranks continuously.

ford38v8
03-01-2011 @ 9:47 PM
Senior
Posts: 2758
Joined: Oct 2009
          
John, your solenoid will not impede the flow from the battery to the starter unless the connections are oxidized. The solenoid is simply a magnetically energized switch, with the early ones also having a mechanical button on the bottom. This button does what the magnet inside does when the starter button in the car is activated. the problem you describe with pushing the button on the bottom is a mechanical one, not an electrical one. Perhaps there is a burr on the button itself that prevents ease of use. Another possibility is that the plunger is pushed cockeyed by the button, which doesn't happen when it is pulled electrically. In any case, it sounds like you're ready for either a new solenoid or a stronger finger to push the button!

Alan

carcrazy
03-01-2011 @ 10:14 PM
Senior
Posts: 1650
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Have you tried using starter fluid (aka an either bomb)? If you have any ignition at all you should be able to at least get the engine to fire up briefly with the use of either.

a4ty4d
03-09-2011 @ 8:15 PM
Member
Posts: 4
Joined: Feb 2011
          
I measure the battery after turning on the light and it was below 6.5 but not by much. I went to NAPA and bought some starting fluid and sprayed some in the carb. After a few cranks it started right up and kept running. After a few moments of sputtering it smoothed out and ran very well. The one thing I did noticed through this whole ordeal was the engine seemed to crank slowly. Maybe I just need to clean the connections to the starter. As I said, I did get it started with the help of starting fluid but the problem as to why it didn't start un-aided is still a mystery. The battery is not all that old so I have my doubts about it being the problem. I want to try some other solutions before I buy an new battery. BTW, what is a good source for 6 volt Optimas?

Thanks for all of your input.

supereal
03-10-2011 @ 10:38 AM
Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
          
In most cases, if you can get an engine going with starting fluid, it means there isn't enough fuel being provided at cold start. My '47 would take right off with a whiff of ether, but cranked without success otherwise. I have an electric pump as a booster, so I knew the carb was full before I tried to start it. Using the choke didn't help. I then tried pumping the gas pedal several times before hitting the starter, and it took right off! I had thought that pumping the gas would cause flooding, but I was wrong. The carb is fine, and once started, the car runs flawlessly. When warm, I don't need to pump the gas to get an immediate start.

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