Posted By |
Discussion Topic:
heater setup
-- page:
1
2
|
|
40merc |
01-30-2010 @ 3:31 PM
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 39
Joined: Jan 2010
|
ok so, im kind of reconfiguring things this week, and first on the list was to fix the heater. the previous owner of the car actually spliced into the lower radiator hose and had a hose running to the heater from that, and the other hose to the top of the cylinder head, opposite side of the temp. sender units. frankly the jerry rigged lower hose kind of scares me so im out to fix this. does anyone know how the heater hoses were routed? i was thinking one hose to the top of each head. hopefully some one knows. thanks alot!
|
ford38v8 |
01-30-2010 @ 9:27 PM
|
|
|
Senior
Posts: 2788
Joined: Oct 2009
|
40merc, believe it or not, ol' Henry Ford had the exact same idea as the previous owner of your car. If your lower hose is soft and in need of replacing, just unscrew the nut from the small hose attached, and you can reuse the fitting on a new hose. The fittings are available new from most antique Ford dealers also.
Alan
|
TomO |
01-31-2010 @ 8:21 AM
|
|
|
Senior
Posts: 7271
Joined: Oct 2009
|
The current configuration of your heater hoses allows the hot coolant from the head to go into the heater and the return of that coolant goes into the lower hose on the same bank so that the water pump can pump it back into the block. In the 40 Merc, you should have a split core radiator so that each bank of the engine coolant is separate and only mixes in the top an bottom tanks. I have attached a diagram from the heater installation instructions that shows the hose connections.
Tom
|
40merc |
01-31-2010 @ 8:56 AM
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 39
Joined: Jan 2010
|
i contacted a friend and he advised me that some of the pumps had boss' for attaching the outlet hose from the heater. i went out side and looked at the water pumps again, they do not have this feature, but i did notice two unused bolt holes on the inside next to the timing plate cover on each side, the pumps on there now use only four bolts of the six bolt holes i spotted, any one know what the extra two were for? maybe a larger pump? the engine is from a 47 merc pickup, the cars a 40 merc. my initial thought is the pumps are only there so the engine can mount correctly... as far as that being the original idea for the return line...wow, i would have never thought. the job looks so shoty and unsafe, what is a good material to seal the hose on the outside after installing the fitting on the inside? does anyone have any advice or procedures for doing this on a new hose i can look at. ive never "tapped" into an coolant line. i was almost thinking it would be better to tap into the top of the passenger side of the radiator and run the return there....or if anyone knows a better idea that doesnt involve cutting into a hose please let me know.
This message was edited by 40merc on 1-31-10 @ 9:03 AM
|
supereal |
01-31-2010 @ 11:00 AM
|
|
|
Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
|
It is standard procedure to mount the return heater hose to a nipple in the lower radiator hose. The proper part is 91A-15160. The nipple is mounted thru a hole in the hose just the size of the pipe. Making that hole isn't difficult. Place the hose over a piece of pipe held in a vise, and using a sharp utility knife, cut the hole. It doesn't have to be perfect, as the inner and outer plates will do the rest. A smear of RTV (room temperature vulcanizing) silicone on the plates will complete the seal as you tighten the nut on the shank of the nipple. This procedure is a whole lot easier than trying to install a fitting in the radiator tank, etc. When you order parts, be sure to include a shutoff valve, 91A-15142. This screws into the head on the same side as the lower nipple, and will permit shutting off the heater flow during the hot months. It is a good idea to secure the hoses feeding the heater to reduce flexing from engine movement. There are brackets (91A-15151) For that purpose. We often use TyRaps instead.
|
Stroker |
01-31-2010 @ 12:12 PM
|
|
|
Senior
Posts: 1460
Joined: Oct 2009
|
The "extra" holes are to allow the 32 motor mounts to bolt up to the block. Ford, in their extraordinary philosophy of interchangeability, continued drilling and tapping these vestigial holes on Ford and Mercury engines up to the very end in 53.
|
ford38v8 |
01-31-2010 @ 2:20 PM
|
|
|
Senior
Posts: 2788
Joined: Oct 2009
|
40merc, study the diagram that TomO attached. In it, you'll see the correct attachment points for the hoses. There are two brackets only, one an angled bracket for the hose to the lower radiator hose, the other a straight bracket on the left bank, as the delivery hose goes around the carburetor. Also, on that same diagram page, you'll see that it has conflicting information regarding the hoses at the dash. One diagram says: "Important - Push hoses tight against dash" (incorrect) The other diagram says: "Water hoses through dash" (correct) This provides two advantages: 1- the rubber provides anti-rattle of the pipes, 2 - vibration won't loosen the hoses from the pipes.
Alan
|
TomO |
02-01-2010 @ 7:20 AM
|
|
|
Senior
Posts: 7271
Joined: Oct 2009
|
40merc, if you are missing the clamps, they are available from C&G Early Ford parts as P/N 91A-15151/2. I am pretty sure that this kit contains a routing diagram as well. I don't know of any water pumps for the 38-48 V-8 Ford engine that had a fitting for the heater return. This feature was used on other makes during the 40's and 50's, but it is no better than the hole in the hose method.
Tom
|
40merc |
02-01-2010 @ 8:49 PM
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 39
Joined: Jan 2010
|
sounds good guys thanks allot.
|
cbkidder |
01-12-2011 @ 5:08 PM
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 9
Joined: Jan 2011
|
Can anyone say if the hose nipple leaks or not with the cooling system under pressure, say a 13# radiator cap? There is a small brass plug on the bottom front of the block; could that serve as a heater return port? 36 Roadster brion@cbkidder.com
This message was edited by cbkidder on 1-12-11 @ 5:09 PM
|