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Discussion Topic:
1948 Mercury steering box
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TomO |
04-29-2013 @ 8:12 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7256
Joined: Oct 2009
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The parts from the 40 gear box will not work in your Mercury. The steering wheel shaft on the Mercury is longer than the Ford. I am concerned by your statement that getting a cracked window, motor reconditioning and trans reconditioning are more important than being able to steer the car. Have you checked the wear in the drag link and tie rod ends? Jack up one wheel with the steering wheel locked and try to turn the wheel, left to right. If there is any movement, check to see where the play is. If your steering box is worn, you will see the most movement at the pitman arm. Any movement in the tie rod or drag link ends means that they should be replaced.
Tom
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supereal |
04-27-2013 @ 7:46 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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I agree with Tom. Most of the problems with Ford steering boxes was due to the placing near the exhaust manifold. This turned the oil to rock. Some tried using chassis lubricant grease instead of oil, but this usually resulted in excessive wear on the "sweet spot" of the worm gear where most of the wear occurs. This shows up as play in the usual center of the wheel.
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1928peterb |
04-27-2013 @ 4:38 PM
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Member
Posts: 4
Joined: Apr 2013
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Thanks TomO ---- I am trying to improve the steering without a rebuild as there are other priorities such as replacing a cracked window & reconditioning the motor and gearbox -- there is a 40s Ford wreck down the track that has been there since about 1970 which I am checking out next weekend to see if the steering box is still in it so I can rebuild it when I get a round tuit.
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TomO |
04-27-2013 @ 8:17 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7256
Joined: Oct 2009
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Most of the play in the steering wheel can be attributed to worn parts in the tie rods and drag link. You should make sure that the drag link and tie rod ends do not have any play. If your play is in the steering box, you should remove the box and rebuild it. The parts are worn and they will continue to wear quicker than normal, because the surface hardening of the gears has worn off. The adjustment screw is mainly for the initial adjustment of a box in good condition, the shimming should only be done when new parts are put into the box.
Tom
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1928peterb |
04-27-2013 @ 4:32 AM
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Member
Posts: 4
Joined: Apr 2013
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Thanks Supereal --- I have adjusted the box with the adjusting screw nut on the top of the steering box as far as it will go and have eliminated most of the slack in the steering -- if someone with experience in removing the bottom adjusting shims can give me a clue or two I may be able to get rid of a bit more slack
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supereal |
04-26-2013 @ 8:10 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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You don't say why you want to adjust the box. Simply removing shims may not remove slack in the steering. Adjusting the steering with the box in the car usually results in removal and disassembly to restore the system. The procedure to adjust the unit is not complicated, but does require considerable time and effort.
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1928peterb |
04-26-2013 @ 7:30 PM
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Member
Posts: 4
Joined: Apr 2013
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Manual says to " ........loosen 4 screws of bottom cover by about 1/8 inch, clip and remove shims ....... " to adjust worm bearing end play. How do you clip and remove shims in the confined space of 1/8 inch ?
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