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Discussion Topic:
Brake Lights
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TomO |
07-05-2018 @ 9:02 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7250
Joined: Oct 2009
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I don't know if anyone makes reproduction parts for your tail light. I doubt that they do, because there are not enough cars to make it profitable. Was the old bulb a 1158 with the 2 prongs the same distance from the bottom of the base? Did you replace the bulb with the same bulb number?
Tom
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JKrieger1976 |
07-03-2018 @ 10:31 AM
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Member
Posts: 20
Joined: May 2018
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Where did you go to find all the tail light pieces you got? The assembly is so old and it’s either been damaged or is just broken, but the new tail light bulb will not fit snugly due to one of the notches being damaged. Do you know if anyone makes the internal hanging assembly for inside the bezel? The screw holding this on is old and I’m thinking I should just replace the whole internal mechanism. Does bob drake make one?
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JKrieger1976 |
07-03-2018 @ 9:05 AM
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Member
Posts: 20
Joined: May 2018
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Where did you go to find all the tail light pieces you got? The assembly is so old and it’s either been damaged or is just broken, but the new tail light bulb will not fit snugly due to one of the notches being damaged. Do you know if anyone makes the internal hanging assembly for inside the bezel? The screw holding this on is old and I’m thinking I should just replace the whole internal mechanism. Does bob drake make one?
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JKrieger1976 |
07-03-2018 @ 9:05 AM
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Member
Posts: 20
Joined: May 2018
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Where did you go to find all the tail light pieces you got? The assembly is so old and it’s either been damaged or is just broken, but the new tail light bulb will not fit snugly due to one of the notches being damaged. Do you know if anyone makes the internal hanging assembly for inside the bezel? The screw holding this on is old and I’m thinking I should just replace the whole internal mechanism. Does bob drake make one?
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cliftford |
06-29-2018 @ 4:06 PM
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Senior
Posts: 845
Joined: Jan 2014
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Squirt a lot of wd40 or similar penetrant around the bulb. Sometimes that will loosen it.
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TomO |
06-29-2018 @ 7:27 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7250
Joined: Oct 2009
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You can use any piece of wire or even jumper cables. To use jumper cables, clamp the red lead to a good ground, like the bumper brace, connect the other end of the red lead to a probe, like a screwdriver, and touch the bulb base or the light socket. To use a piece of wire, just wrap one end of the wire around a bolt that attaches to the frame and tighten the bolt, touch the other end to the bulb base or socket.
Tom
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JKrieger1976 |
06-28-2018 @ 1:56 PM
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Member
Posts: 20
Joined: May 2018
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No, I haven’t. I need to go and buy something to make a jumper out of.
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JKrieger1976 |
06-28-2018 @ 11:47 AM
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Member
Posts: 20
Joined: May 2018
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Thanks. It’s locked up tighter than a drum. I’ve been working on it as best I can, but to no avail so far. Will keep trying.
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TomO |
06-28-2018 @ 6:44 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7250
Joined: Oct 2009
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Did you try using a jumper to provide a good ground to the bulb? It is important to have a good ground and a poor ground could be the source of your problem.
Tom
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len47merc |
06-28-2018 @ 5:30 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1165
Joined: Oct 2013
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JKrieger1976 - in case you have not already removed the bulb, and the 'bayonet' description is not intuitive to you, basically you should be able to impart modest inward pressure on the bulb to depress the socket-base spring and release the lock pins on each side of the bulb from the socket's notched holding positions. Then maintaining modest inward pressure rotate the bulb counter-clockwise about 1/4 turn or so to then remove the bulb. If it's been in place for a while you may have to work carefully to overcome the resistive force of any corrosion/rust that may have been created over time. Steve
This message was edited by len47merc on 6-28-18 @ 5:32 AM
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