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EFV-8 Club Forum / 1940 Ford Discussion / Broken lower radiator pan

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Posted By Discussion Topic: Broken lower radiator pan

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gary duff
07-07-2012 @ 12:14 PM
Member
Posts: 3
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Kube
I just completed a 2200 mile trip from Seattle to
Yellowstone and back, in my 1940 Deluxe coupe. When I cleaned and checked out the car after the trip, I found the lower radiator pan broken near the right side bolt that mounts the pan and radiator. This car
is a March 1940 production date. The pan is the early
one, without the doubler at the bolt hole. I have mount
bolts installed with the spring up. Any input as to what I need to do to correct this problem. Gary Duff

kubes40
07-07-2012 @ 1:50 PM
Senior
Posts: 3394
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Hi Gary, If I understand correctly, it sounds as if you have the mounting hardware installed correctly. The bolt goes up through a flat washer, through the pan, the frame, a rubber pad, the radiator flange, the spring, a small washer and then the castile nut.
I have seen these lower pans crack in the past. Simply stress and age of the metal... it does become brittle especially when there is any twisting forces applied.
I have found it quite easy to weld these pans back together, grind and refinish as necessary.

supereal
07-07-2012 @ 2:02 PM
Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
          
C&G lists the radiator pan for your car as item# 91A-8240-B (800/266-0470). If the metal is fatigued, it may be better to replace it.

Stroker
07-07-2012 @ 4:17 PM
Senior
Posts: 1460
Joined: Oct 2009
          
I've had good luck through the years welding fatigue-cracked metal as long as you use an
oxyacetylene torch (000 or 0000). Stick, TIG & MIG concentrate the heat too close to
the crack, and the oxyacetylene torch method heats slower and spreads the heat away from
the weld area. This tends to "normalize" the surrounding metal and remove accumulated
stresses. You can also find incipient cracks that are not normally visible by "playing"
the torch around suspect areas which will reveal "invisible cracks" as one side of the
crack area will become incandescent before the other. I'll admit, I'd rather weld than
spend money on repop pieces. To each his own.

gary duff
07-09-2012 @ 10:21 AM
Member
Posts: 3
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Thanks Kube Supereal Stroker

It looks like I had the radiator mounting bolts
installed correctly. Might be able to get the late
production pan with yhe doubler, from a local club member. Thanks for the input.
Gary

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