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EFV-8 Club Forum / 1940 Ford Discussion / Getting warm at idle

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Discussion Topic: Getting warm at idle -- page: 1 2

682bear

10-25-2023 @ 5:40 PM

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No, the thermostats have been removed while I'm flushing the system...

-Bear

RAK402

10-25-2023 @ 5:33 PM

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Are you running thermostats?

If you are checking coolant flow at idle with a cold engine, you won't see much coolant flow.

682bear

10-25-2023 @ 12:56 PM

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Thanks, Jay...

I removed one of the old water pumps this afternoon. From what little I can see inside the engine block, it doesn't look bad. No scale rust is visible, and no noticeable sediment.

The pump doesn't look as bad as I was expecting... or maybe I don't know what I'm looking at. Opinions are welcome...

Before I disconnected the homemade flush tanks, I started the engine and used my timing light to determine the idle RPM... it is idling at about 590 RPM. I think the pumps should move more coolant than they do turning that fast...

-Bear

JayChicago

10-24-2023 @ 5:22 PM

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I like your plumbing work. Ingenious!

682bear

10-24-2023 @ 8:45 AM

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I have the radiator out of the '40... and I did remove the hidden bolts from both water pumps, just to be sure they would come out. They came out very easily, so I reinstalled them... I'm not quite ready to remove the pumps yet.

I constructed a couple of contraptions out of pvc to replace the radiator... just for the purpose of being able to pump water... and Evaporust... through the system without having the radiator in.

I filled the system with water and a mild detergent and ran the engine just until the temperature gauge rose a little. I left the thermostats out while I'm tinkering with it.

At idle, there is almost no coolant flow on either side... I would say that the volume is maybe half what a drinking straw would flow. Throttle it up some and it quickly starts flowing well. I think this may be why it wants to heat up at idle.

I'll get the pumps off later this week, hopefully, and see what they look like.

-Bear

682bear

10-04-2023 @ 2:51 PM

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TomO: I'll very likely see about sending my pumps to Skip Haney for a rebuild... and I'll try the Evaporust flush, also... thanks for the advice.

Fritzford: my car doesn't have a heater... so I'm not sure why the temperature differences between the heads. It's probably not a big deal, though.

I appreciate all the responses and advice... I'll get started on this in a few days and we'll see what happens.

-Bear

trjford8

10-04-2023 @ 8:37 AM

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I have used the water pumps from Daryl Fryer who advertises in the V-8 Times with great success. He does rebuilds from the original housings.

fritzford

10-03-2023 @ 1:57 PM

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I am not convinced you have a problem. It is normal for these engines to get hotter when they idle for long times. They weren't made to idle in traffic forever. I have a 59A in a '41 pickup, so its the same setup as you have.

As for the passenger side running cooler, do you have a hot water heater? That will take some temp off the passenger side. Also, thermostats may be within a few degrees of each other, and may not be exactly the same.

I have 180 thermostats in mine and it runs between 180 and 200 on hot days while normal suburban driving. I just avoid traffic on hot days.

On pumps, I have Drake pumps and they work very well I believe. I have 5k miles on them.

682bear

09-28-2023 @ 5:23 PM

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I've been reading up on replacing the pumps... I'm no expert, but I do have a (very) little experience with an 8BA that was in my '51 F2 when I bought it, so I did know about the hidden bolt.

I tend to read everything I can find about a topic before tackling a job that I've never done... I want to know tips, tricks, and, most importantly, what 'might' go wrong and how to prevent it...

It's saved me a lot of heartache in the past.

-Bear

JayChicago

09-28-2023 @ 9:39 AM

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Bear, you should know that TomO is one of our resident experts. His advice is always golden.

If you do tackle the pumps, you should do research to get how-to tips. I understand there is a tricky internal bolt that has been exposed to the coolant for decades, can be difficult to remove. If the bolt head is/gets rounded-over, or bolt brakes, big troubles begin.

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