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Discussion Topic:
Questions re: rear spring shackle bolt replacement
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Carcheologist |
05-02-2022 @ 2:34 PM
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New Member
Posts: 132
Joined: Jan 2016
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Kube, After thinking about it more, I guess I'll continue to troubleshoot in hopes of discovering that the problem is something other than the spring perch bolts! Removing the tube shocks and going for a ride is next on the agenda.
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kubes40 |
05-02-2022 @ 6:45 AM
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Senior
Posts: 3406
Joined: Oct 2009
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Just a thought... if you are intent at replacing the perch pins in the spring, how about sourcing a NOS spring?
Mike "Kube" Kubarth
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Carcheologist |
05-01-2022 @ 6:46 PM
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New Member
Posts: 132
Joined: Jan 2016
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The knocking noise is definitely coming from somewhere around the rear suspension and is mostly noticed coming from the right rear when going over choppy roads or potholes. I'm thinking about replacing the shackles and bolts just so I can take that off the list of possibilities.
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RAK402 |
05-01-2022 @ 6:36 PM
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Member
Posts: 438
Joined: Jul 2015
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I had various things loose under mine (shocks, shock links, torsion bar links, the rubber ball on the radius arm, etc.) and went through correcting them, but still had one last knock left. Turns out the grommet that the parking brake cable in the center of the frame was gone (it was only 80 years old, so...). Installing the new one was "interesting,"but it took care of the knock.
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Carcheologist |
05-01-2022 @ 4:03 PM
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New Member
Posts: 132
Joined: Jan 2016
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As recommended above, I have checked the shocks and they seem tight and without any slop. Also checked the exhaust pipe clearance in several places along the frame rails and all is well there too. I'm using a tubular shock retrofit kit and my next move will be to remove the shocks and drive the car just to see if that makes any difference. I'm betting Kube is on to something with the spring shackle bolts.
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TomO |
05-01-2022 @ 8:54 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7256
Joined: Oct 2009
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I would also check the clearance of the tail pipe to the fuel tank and other chassis components. You need at least 1/2" and I prefer about 3/4" clearance between the tail pipe and the nearest object. X2 on Kube's post.
Tom
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trjford8 |
05-01-2022 @ 8:31 AM
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Senior
Posts: 4218
Joined: Oct 2009
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I would also check the shocks to make sure they are bolted down tight and working properly.
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kubes40 |
05-01-2022 @ 6:05 AM
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Senior
Posts: 3406
Joined: Oct 2009
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As you'd noted, it's difficult at best to determine the cause of the "clunking" from my office. However, I can tell you this from personal experience: I had a '40 coupe come to my shop about five years ago with a similar issue. A "clunk" at times that could not be traced. Turns out the front spring pins were shot. Replaced them, no more "clunk".
Mike "Kube" Kubarth
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Carcheologist |
04-30-2022 @ 6:36 PM
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New Member
Posts: 132
Joined: Jan 2016
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Thanks Kube for your feedback. I've done just about every kind of mechanical repair you can think of on these old Fords, but never replaced shackle bolts so I wanted to get some expert advice on what I'm getting into. In your opinion, could worn shackle bolts be the cause behind the knocking/clunking sound I described? Not trying to pin you down, but I'm at a loss about what's causing the noise.
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kubes40 |
04-30-2022 @ 6:03 PM
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Senior
Posts: 3406
Joined: Oct 2009
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If you are detecting "unusual gaps", the perch / spring pins are most likely worn out. You can replace these with the spring in the car. Please, please, use a professional spring spreader, IE, NOT one made from threaded rod. Removing the old pins requires some effort and patience. Installing new pins is made much easier if you have the proper press. I'd suggest you seek both the spreader and press from a fellow member in your area. If you would like to install pins that are copies of the authentic, be advised, do NOT grind down the outer diameter as many folks do. They are oversize for a designed reason. Grinding them down is akin to installing worn out pins. If originality is not a concern, the kits that have rubber bushings are VERY easy to install. However, be forewarned, they will not restore the proper (read: designed) ride nor handling characteristics.
Mike "Kube" Kubarth
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