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EFV-8 Club Forum / 1940 Ford Discussion / Checking my voltage regulator

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Posted By Discussion Topic: Checking my voltage regulator -- page: 1 2

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sarahcecelia
07-04-2017 @ 8:35 AM
Senior
Posts: 1182
Joined: Mar 2013
          
I would appreciate it if someone would explain in VERY CONCISE DETAIL, step by step, how to check my voltage regulator with my voltmeter. It seems that my questions and answers got mixed in with another guys, that found his regulator was defective.I know what the readings should be,in the different areas of the gauge,and to warm motor to temp first,and to rev to about 1500 rpms. I know that the volt meter connects to the BAT terminal on the regulator?But where does the other go? And disconnectthe battery???HELP!!!

Regards, Steve Lee

len47merc
07-04-2017 @ 1:14 PM
Senior
Posts: 1165
Joined: Oct 2013
          
Steve - suggest you pick up a copy of the 'Shop Manual' for your year car (assume '40 given where you posted your question). Here is a link to one on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00O2CF59S/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1499198523&sr=8-6&pi=SL75_QL70&keywords=1940+ford+shop+manual

It has a very detailed description of the procedure you are looking for as well as a host of very helpful others, and additional information that will give you a clearer understanding of the workings of the voltage regulator and why the evaluation tests and adjustments are conducted as described. This and the appropriate 'Motors Manual' should give you most everything you'll need in more than adequate, concise and comprehensive detail.

Steve

This message was edited by len47merc on 7-4-17 @ 2:00 PM

sarahcecelia
07-04-2017 @ 6:18 PM
Senior
Posts: 1182
Joined: Mar 2013
          
I have that repair book, Ford Mercury 1932-41 Shop manual, that you gave me the Amazon url address for. It is a piece of cr*p! It just kind of scans over some generalitys about things! It tells absolutely nothing about things you really need to know more about, and doesn't go into much detail about what it does tell. The testing of the voltage regulator is not covered at all. It just tells you why the car needs one.I bought that manual about a year ago- what a waste of money!!"Kubes" sent a reply to a guy on the forum that there were 15 grease fittings on a '40; well that manual says there are only 10. Who do I believe? You got it "Kubes!!"

Regards, Steve Lee

cliftford
07-04-2017 @ 8:49 PM
Senior
Posts: 845
Joined: Jan 2014
          
Try to find a Motors or Chiltons manual that covers that era. I've found them to be very comprehensive on electrical.

len47merc
07-05-2017 @ 5:16 AM
Senior
Posts: 1165
Joined: Oct 2013
          
Steve - sorry to have directed you to the Shop Manual, though to my credit I added the Motors Manual which cliftford endorsed as well. The '42-'48 Shop Manual does an adequate job of describing this process and I assumed the earlier Service Handbook for '32-'41 would have done so as well. Taking your description at face value I will refrain from that recommendation in the future.

For your info - here is a link to an original Ford Motor Company REPAIR MANUAL GENERATING AND STARTING SYSTEMS 1933-1947 book from June 27, 1947 that covers the process per Ford's original procedures in complete detail:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1933-1947-ORIGINAL-Repair-Manual-Generating-and-Starting-Systems-Ford-Motor-Co-/272734738830?hash=item3f8041d98e:g:bQYAAOSw9NdXujTo

These manuals are color coded - this one is yellow - and others exist for 'FUEL SYSTEMS' (red), 'ENGINES' (green), etc. Over the last few years I've been able to obtain a full set of quality, well-cared for originals. Perhaps this will help as well. I keep each of mine in fitted plastic sleeves and then all in a sealed plastic bag for protection/storage and only remove them for reference when needed or for display at Meets.

If you'll send me a pm with your e-mail address I'll be glad to scan the applicable pages from the 'yellow' manual and send them to you if you are interested.

Lastly, if you perform a search for 'voltage regulator' for 'ALL' Forums and Username 'TomO' you'll find dozens of results for which one or more will likely contain quality information from Tom on what you are searching for.



Steve

This message was edited by len47merc on 7-5-17 @ 5:27 AM

sarahcecelia
07-05-2017 @ 5:26 AM
Senior
Posts: 1182
Joined: Mar 2013
          
I have chilton's 1940-1953! I'm literally amazed because I never knew that that I have that one!! I'll take a look in it. Thanks!

Regards, Steve Lee

sarahcecelia
07-05-2017 @ 5:43 AM
Senior
Posts: 1182
Joined: Mar 2013
          
Well, I looked in that Chilton manual, and it only tells you the air gaps and point gaps on the 1940 regulator! Darn!!

Regards, Steve Lee

len47merc
07-05-2017 @ 6:06 AM
Senior
Posts: 1165
Joined: Oct 2013
          
Steve - did you see my 2nd reply to you above?

Steve

TomO
07-05-2017 @ 6:33 AM
Senior
Posts: 7250
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Steve, I replied to your post in the General Ford Discussion, but I will give you a step by step directions here. These directions assume that your engine is in running condition and that all connections are in their normal mode.

1. Set the volt meter to the scale that has the maximum reading above 9 volts so that the 6-8 volts will be in the center of the range (10 or 15 volt range would be OK).
2. Connect the black or COM lead of the volt meter to the BAT terminal of the voltage regulator, leaving all wires connected.
3. Connect the red or + lead of the volt meter to a good ground (+terminal of battery, ground strap or engine bolt).
4. The meter should read battery voltage (6.2 - 6.5 Volts).
5. Start the engine and let it warm up.
6. Increase the engine speed to around 1.500 RPM and read the meter.
7. The meter should read at least 7.2 Volts and no more than 7.6 Volts. Any other reading means the regulator is out of range.
8. Let the engine idle for at least 30 seconds.
9 . Turn off the engine
10. Disconnect the meter.

Tom

sarahcecelia
07-07-2017 @ 5:55 PM
Senior
Posts: 1182
Joined: Mar 2013
          
I finally took the generator to an old guy, (semi- retired) "Old school" generator/ regulator repairman that has done them for years and years, about 28 miles up the road today. He said the generator isn't putting out right and he is going to take it apart, find out what it needs, get the parts and rebuild it. Then he's going to set it up with my regulator, on his test bench, and adjust the regulator if it needs it! He said the cost would be $200 or less depending on what parts it needs. Hoorah!! But sincerely, I appreciate all the guys that made comments to try to help me on this forum!!!

Regards, Steve Lee

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