| boomer | -- 09-09-2024 @ 9:49 AM |
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I need 4 wheels and radial tires for my 47 ford truck with 5 bolt, 6 1/2inch bolt pattern,3/4inch studs. I currently have widow makers and need to get rid of them. Boomer
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| truckdog62563 | -- 09-09-2024 @ 12:50 PM |
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I’ll be interested to read if somebody posts a different answer to the one I posted to the recent similar question. I doubt there will be a different answer. Your wheels are no doubt Ford 11Y1015A, Budd #44630. They are not widow makers despite what some tire shop might have told you. They have an outer locking side ring rim called the Firestone RH. The widow maker was the RH-5° that came to market in 1948 and was termed Firestone’s “Advanced Design” rim. There is no record I’ve found of an OEM style substitute for these wheels aside from custom built ones. Chain type tire shops will send you away because they don’t want to mess with these wheels, and have not trained techs in their handling. Find an old guy in an independent shop that knows his trade. Early tonners could have been fitted with 11Y1015B wheels, Budd #44620. These are cited in the Green Bible as being 5” wide while the 11Y1015A is 6” wide. Ford references of the era failed to adopt a wheel industry change in width measurement that occurred in the 1940s. The above width measurements are found when measuring across rim lips. The current system measures across the inner base rim between lips. Thus the 5” rim is now a 3.75” and the 6” is the 4.33”. Adding to the frustration here, the 3.75” and 4.33” rims do not share the same side ring. It’s the same RH/RI design, (RI was the demountable version), but they are dimensionally different. And no reference I’ve found says it’s okay to interchange them. So keeping rings and rims together during servicing is important. Stu Stu McMillan '47 Tonner Marmon Herrington V8 '52 F-3 Marmon Herrington I6 This message was edited by truckdog62563 on 9-9-24 @ 1:00 PM
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| boomer | -- 09-10-2024 @ 2:12 PM |
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Thanks for the lesson in wheels. The ring on the outside of my wheel is solid (no split). I assume the wheel would be one piece with the ring pried off , then you would just remove the old tire and replace it and work the ring back on the wheel. Is that correct? Boomer This message was edited by boomer on 9-10-24 @ 2:16 PM
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| 51504bat | -- 09-11-2024 @ 6:48 AM |
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Make sure the boot and tube are in good condition before mounting the new tire. ______________ No signature
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| boomer | -- 09-11-2024 @ 9:04 AM |
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I have new tires and new tubes. I guess I should get new boots because I have no idea what shape they are in..
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| boomer | -- 09-11-2024 @ 1:49 PM |
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Stu this is a picture of my wheel . I am just trying to make sure I have a wheel that is not going to hurt the guy I find to swap the tires out. Boomer(Jim)
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| truckdog62563 | -- 09-11-2024 @ 3:51 PM |
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Yup, that’s a Tonner wheel. The ring has two indented areas on opposite sides that allow it to be squeezed over the lip of the base rim. Too much aggression in an effort to force it past the rim can bend the ring, so another reason to make sure the guy doing the work knows his trade. Obviously finding replacements isn’t easy. Below is a ring showing the indented areas. Stu Stu McMillan '47 Tonner Marmon Herrington V8 '52 F-3 Marmon Herrington I6
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| boomer | -- 09-16-2024 @ 10:42 AM |
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Thanks Stu, it is a relief to know that they can be safely mounted if the guy knows what he is doing . Now I just have to find that guy in Colorado. Boomer(Jim)
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