| Bud 32B | -- 03-10-2010 @ 12:04 PM |
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My model b sedan has a loose tack strip on one corner and does not have the rubber bead that covers it. I want to retack in places before putting the bead back. The little nails seem loose on that corner(might have something to do with condition of underlying wood) How many tacks/nails should be used per foot, or how far apart should the tacks be spaced? I appreciate the replys I have received on other questions, and yes I did buy the two volumn books from the club. They are a great help, but sometimes I run across things either I can't find the answer to in the book or it isn't there.
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| trjford8 | -- 03-10-2010 @ 8:01 PM |
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I would put a tack every 1/2 inch. If the wood is soft you might also consider a longer tack or nail so it goes down into wood that is more solid.
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| supereal | -- 03-12-2010 @ 12:46 PM |
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I agree with Tom. It is usual to find that the tack strip will not hold tacks because moisture has infiltrated the strip around the previous tacks. Sometimes longer tacks will reach solid material, but more often the tack strip must be replaced, or the top will pull loose again.
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| 3w2 | -- 03-12-2010 @ 9:38 PM |
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Bud32B, If your tack strip is a steel original (and it sounds like it is given that it has a rubber insert), the spacing of the tacks is governed by the pre-punched holes in the tack strip (see page 17-2 of the new '32 book). If tack retention is the problem, replacing the tack strip would not solve anything as the problem most likely is a deterioration of the wood into which the tacks are driven. This wood can only be accessed from beneath and that involves dropping the headliner. If you don't want to go that far, there are some wood rot eliminators on the market that might help (but you would have lift the tack strip and the top material to access the oval holes in the roof stamping beneath which is installed the wood and through which your tack strip nails enter that wood). Another stop gap measure would be to use screws instead of nails to attach the tack strip. While they are hard to find, #2 or #3 flat-head screws will clear the sides of the tack strip and end up flush with the bottom of the strip and not leave a bulge in the rubber insert strip once it is re-installed. Best of all would be screws with a Robertson head which prevent any slippage of the screw driver (which can easily damage the paint on the steel tack strip). Another stop-gap possibility would be to use the special body nails with a spiral, fluted shank. These hold much better than regular nails (tacks were not used originally) and are easier to find than #2 or #3 screws; LeBaron Bonney carries them, for example. Dave
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| Bud 32B | -- 03-14-2010 @ 10:07 AM |
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thanks for all the good advice. I do have the original tack strip and it is only a problem at the rear corner that is curved. I thought of using some rosin to pour into the strip in hopes of it penetrating the wood before hardening. The twisted shank nails sound like what I will try next. If I can find those screws, that will be an option too
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