| rogerh | -- 10-04-2013 @ 11:08 AM |
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Does anyone out there know how to successfully rebuild the Detroit Lubricator carburetor? Any help would be much appreciated?
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| supereal | -- 10-05-2013 @ 2:18 PM |
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I am attaching two pages from the old Ford bulletins outlining the Detroit Lubricator carb. It isn't a "how to", but should give you some insight on that very old obsolete carb.
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| supereal | -- 10-05-2013 @ 2:19 PM |
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Here is page two.
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| rogerh | -- 10-07-2013 @ 1:47 PM |
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Thanks. I have the Bulletins, and Dave Rehor's 32 info book. What I need is parts and/or someone who knows what they're doing to rebuild it. One carb rebuilder said they're very difficult to rebuild, but he'd try for $2500! Hopefully someone at least has some parts for a little cheaper.
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| 39 Ken | -- 10-08-2013 @ 4:09 AM |
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Jim Kroll from Perry, OH. His contact info is in the V8 Club directory. He can answer your questions and/or do the work for you.
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| 3w2 | -- 10-08-2013 @ 7:04 PM |
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I've rebuilt a number of them and they are not difficult to do. The secret is thorough cleaning, freely moving vanes, a throttle shaft free of excess wear, and a properly functioning float valve. If your float valve needle is worn, it can be reground to restore it and you can restore the seat with an appropriate size drill with the tip ground to the correct angle. A worn throttle shaft can be brazed and turned in a lathe to restore it. Finding a new throttle shaft and float valve needle and seat is a tall order and even finding the gaskets has become a challenge. I ran out of new parts a long time ago and have had to restore used ones as a result. Dave
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| rogerh | -- 10-19-2013 @ 8:35 AM |
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Thanks for your reply. I finally found Mark at Classic Carburetors, who has rebuilt a number of the DL carbs. I sent it to him and hopefully he'll do a good job. I still need a true 32 throttle body with the closed opposite end of the throttle shaft. Mine is apparently a 33 with a plugged end. If you have any leads, I'd appreciate it. Thanks again. Roger
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| salazarich | -- 02-04-2014 @ 4:14 PM |
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as far i know all 1932 fords have a frame reveal.
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| rogerh | -- 05-13-2014 @ 9:04 AM |
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Thanks Dave. I sent my carb to Classic Carburetors, and $585 later, it came looking great with a new throttle shaft. Unfortuanatly, there was no improvement in how it worked. The problem is the engine dying at stop signs. They only test them on a static engine, and when I called to tell them they needed to test it in a running car, they said they didn't do that. He suggested I send it in and they'll try again, but that will be fruitless unless they put it in a driving car. He didn't have any clues as to why the engine dies at stop signs. Any ideas?
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| TomO | -- 05-16-2014 @ 6:07 AM |
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Your engine could die from too low idle speed, flooding from a too high float level or starving from too low a float level. A vacuum leak could also cause it to die. You might give a better explanation of what you are doing when it dies. Does it happen just before you stop? does it happen after you stop and idle for a few seconds? Does it die when you start out? Does it die after idling for a minute or longer? Look at your spark plugs, do they have black sooty deposits? How does your car idle when warm? Does pulling out the choke slightly help with the problem? Does pulling out the throttle help with the problem? Tom
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| rogerh | -- 05-16-2014 @ 1:44 PM |
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Hi Tom: Pulling out the choke about 1/4 is the only way to prevent it. It at least makes the car driveable. If I don't pull out the choke, the engine dies just as I'm pulling up to the stop sign. It always starts immediately after I push the starter switch. I've played with fuel levels, but no improvement. The carb 'experts' that rebuilt it don't have a clue what the problem is. They just say send it in again and they'll double check, but since they don't test it in a driving car, they'll never even see the problem. The odd thing is, many years ago when I rebuilt it, it ran fine for quite a while, then suddenly started dying at stop signs. That's when I changed the float level, but as I say, no good results. I'm baffled. Thanks for your suggestions. Any more?
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| rogerh | -- 05-16-2014 @ 1:48 PM |
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More: the car idles great when warm, and runs great at 10 mph or 60 mph. Something is happening inside when I slow down that is causing the problem. One might say the engine in slowing down less than idle speed and the engine vacuum is too low, but I always push the clutch in as the engine slows down nearing the stop sign, so the rpm should be above the minimum required to keep fuel flowing through the carb. Maybe the DT doesn't like stop signs.
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| TomO | -- 05-17-2014 @ 8:15 AM |
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Pulling out the choke, increases the idle rpm as well as the fuel flow from the fuel pump. Pulling out the throttle will increase the idle rpm and not affect the fuel flow as much. You could try that. Does the engine die when making slow turns, right or left? How did you adjust the metering pin? Check your spark plug color to see if it is too lean or too rich. If the color is good, adjust the pin to the rich side 1/8 turn at a time to see if that improves the condition. Have you checked the fuel output of the fuel pump? It could be marginal due to restrictions in the supply line, short pump rod or weak diaphragm. To check fuel delivery, you need a graduated 16 ounce or larger container to determine the amount of fuel delivered in a measured time. Disconnect the fuel pump line from the carburetor and direct it into a graduated container. Crank the engine long enough to get 2 ounces of gas in the container and then continue cranking for 15 more strokes of the pump. The pump should have delivered 6 more ounces of gas. Tom
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| canadadeuce | -- 09-15-2014 @ 9:16 PM |
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Hi Also looking for Ford32 Detroit Lubricator Carb gaskets or rebuild Kits Norrie Spencer B C Canada See early V-8 Roster
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| Iannz | -- 01-19-2017 @ 2:46 PM |
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I have a Detroit Lubricator carburettor fitted to my 32 coupe I have been having a lot of trouble with it lately, the engine has been running good and not starting too bad up to now , but when I go to start it now there is clouds of black smoke coming out the exhaust and it is only running on some cylinders as if it running too rich therefor I cannot drive the car. Anybody else had this problem. I have scr*w*d the mixture screw down but it makes no difference.
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| Iannz | -- 01-19-2017 @ 3:12 PM |
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I have a Detroit Lubricator Carburettor fitted to my 32 coupe it has been starting not too bad and the engine has been running allright up to now. When I try and start the engine now there is clouds of black smoke come out the exhaust and the engine only runs on a few cylinders therefor I cannot drive the car. I have adjusted the mixture screw down but it makes no difference has anybody else had this problem.
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| Iannz | -- 01-19-2017 @ 3:14 PM |
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I have a Detroit Lubricator Carburettor fitted to my 32 coupe it has been starting not too bad and the engine has been running allright up to now. When I try and start the engine now there is clouds of black smoke come out the exhaust and the engine only runs on a few cylinders therefor I cannot drive the car. I have adjusted the mixture screw down but it makes no difference has anybody else had this problem.
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| TomO | -- 01-20-2017 @ 8:20 AM |
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You should start a new topic with your problem. Does your car idle? If so check the spark by holding a plug wire near a head nut. The spark should be blue in color and about 1/2 inch long. Clean or replace your spark plugs if the car will not idle and then check the spark. If you have good spark, your carburetor may need rebuilding. If the spark is weak or orange colored, replace the condenser, and recheck. If it is still weak, have the coil rebuilt and the distributor serviced. Tom
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| 3w2 | -- 01-22-2017 @ 4:07 PM |
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Iannz, It sounds like your problem is a stuck vane inside the center section of the carburetor. I suggest a good cleaning in lacquer thinner or whatever you normally use for remove gasoline residue. Once clean, put it back together and see if the vanes move freely up and down. If the hang up, sometimes the die cast vanes need a little dressing with emery cloth on a flat hard surface as they are made of die cast zinc and have a tendency to swell with age. Try not to damage the gaskets when you disassemble the carburetor (especially the one for the float bowl cover) as they are not available and you'll have to make new ones if they require replacement.
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| Iannz | -- 02-05-2017 @ 2:40 PM |
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3w2. Thanks very much for the information, I have overhauled the Detroit Lube carburettor a while ago, I will check on the vanes it seems something has jamed up, and what is the correct float level? I have fitted a 1941-1947 Ford 6 carburettor at the moment which has worked out very well.
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