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Carlock
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-- 02-19-2013 @ 7:54 PM
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I am rebuilding the rear axle in my 32. It is the early round flange style. My driveshaft front support bearing race is worn approx. .040 undersize on the dia. behind the u-joint spline. Has anyone ever successfully repaired this area of the driveshaft? If so how? I have been unsuccessfull in finding a good replacement shaft. Thanks
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supereal
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-- 02-20-2013 @ 12:38 PM
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The bearing runs in a sleeve, part number B-4655. The roller bearing is B-4645, and the grease seal that goes behind the bearing is B-4245. The sleeve and bearing were changed in '37, so be sure you have the "B" type, not the solid later "68". They do wear, but the driveshaft itself shouldn't be worn, unless the bearing has seized. C&G has all the parts. To replace the sleeve, a puller is necessary. The torque tube must be disconnected from the axle and pulled off the driveshaft to allow removal of the sleeve. If you don't have access to a puller and driver, take the assembly to a good machine shop.
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Carlock
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-- 02-21-2013 @ 9:34 AM
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Please reread the question, the driveshaft dia. is worn .040" UNDERSIZE in the race area behind the u-joint spline. I am talking about repairing the shaft OD or finding a useable driveshaft. Has anyone successuly repaired a driveshaft OD? Does anyone have a good shaft? Thanks
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supereal
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-- 02-21-2013 @ 1:12 PM
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I did read it carefully. If the driveshaft, itself, is worn, it would be very unusual. Sorry to be so stupid, but after many years of working on old Fords, the only bad, old drive shafts that I've seen are broken at the spines on one end or the other. The '32 passenger and light commercial drive shaft was a one year only part, B-4605-A. It is 56 31/64" long. They were obsoleted many years ago, and are likely nearly impossible to find. It is longer than the Model A, and shorter than the newer cars. If your shaft is, intself, worn in the front bearing area, it could conceiveably be repaired by adding metal and machining to size, but that requires considerable expertise to maintain the integrity of the shaft. We operate a big machine shop and do driveshaft work when we lengthen or shorten trucks, and altering a driveshaft takes time and skill. If, in fact, the shaft isn't obviously worn, then there may be a mismatch between the two different bearings and sleeves as noted in my earlier post.
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40 Coupe
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-- 03-12-2013 @ 5:08 AM
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I have the drive shaft was sold to me as NOS and it appears to be without any wear. Send me a personal message if interested.
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rotorwrench
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-- 03-12-2013 @ 11:36 AM
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As an alternative to the OEM drive shaft, a person can contact Dick Spadaro (he has a web-site). He sells the components to fabricate a tubular drive shaft and may even have correct length shafts that are premade for specific models. A person would have to call him and inquire. He had kits made up with the new manufacture front & rear splined sections and a long cut to length tube section so that a person could modify for installation of alternative engines with the torque tube drive set up and fabricate one for any length desired.
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FAR32
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-- 03-13-2013 @ 8:48 AM
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I would consider replacing the end. A lot of 35-36 driveshafts have been converted to exhaust headers and the ends are available. A driveshaft shop could change the ends.
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