| jim5618 | -- 05-17-2011 @ 12:41 PM |
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Although it seems to all work, my wiring seems to be all patched together. How hard is it to replace the harness?
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| trjford8 | -- 05-17-2011 @ 2:06 PM |
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There are several manufacturers of V-8 wire harnesses. Many of the V-8 parts vendors carry those harnesses. Check the main page of this site and look at vendors.The 32 harnesses are reasonable in price. Wiring that has been patched and spliced is not a good thing. There's always a potential for a breakdown or fire.
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| supereal | -- 05-17-2011 @ 2:20 PM |
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It is a big job, in most cases. Be aware that repro harnesses often contain extra wires, and don't always follow the usual color codes. It is helpful to tag the original wires at their connections to help identify their positions.
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| CharlieStephens | -- 05-17-2011 @ 6:34 PM |
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Jim, I found replacing the wiring to be a relatively easy job. Just be sure to pay a little more and get a quality harness with the wires correctly color coded. Charlie Stephens
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| jim5618 | -- 05-17-2011 @ 8:11 PM |
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its a four cylinder if that makes a difference. I think it can be next winter's project.
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| ford38v8 | -- 05-17-2011 @ 8:17 PM |
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Jim, I disagree with Super. I would say that it is a scary job, not a big job. For one to put his car out of commission by ripping out his harness can be a very traumatic experience. Just because you can rebuild a transmission or a differential doesn't give you the confidence to tear into the electrical system. I been there, I know. Take it by steps, know what you are doing so there are no mistakes, and it will be easy: Buy the harness from a well known vendor, or better yet, direct from the manufacturer. State your specs up front: Will you want an extra wire for turn signals? Your harness will still look stock, but you'll be able to have turn signals at a future date if you want them.Order all connections soldered, not simply crimped. Get the correct Ford wiring diagram and print a 200 % large copy for use in the shop. Label all leads on the new harness, and do the same on your original harness. At this point, you will have learned your wiring system before you tear it out. The job will now be a piece of cake and you will complete the tear-out and replacement in a single afternoon. One more tip: You may solder the bullet connectors if you wish, but proper use of dialectric grease will provide the same good results. Clean every connection and protect them all from oxidation with dialectric grease. You don't ever want to go head to head with that old nemesis called "Resistance", 'cause he'll win if you don't know he's waiting for you to screw up. Alan
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| 3w2 | -- 05-17-2011 @ 8:27 PM |
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Jim, Roy Nacewicz knows a good current source for 4-cylinder wiring reproductions. He can be reached at nertman@aol.com. There's a distinction between early and late Model B wiring, but as I recall, your car has a hand-controlled starter switch so it will use the early style of wiring harness for the instrumemt panel to engine wiring. The ignition coil wiring to the distributor is a separate harness as is that for the lamps. Dave Rehor
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| jim5618 | -- 05-17-2011 @ 9:17 PM |
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Dave, Thanks I will talk to Roy. I am in the process of staining a set of his floorboards for the car. It is good to know there are different harnesses because I may only need one of them and not all of them.
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| CharlieStephens | -- 05-18-2011 @ 9:13 AM |
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Jim, I hope you are staining those boards black like they were originally and not something like walnut because it looks good. Charlie Stephens
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| jim5618 | -- 05-19-2011 @ 7:11 AM |
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I am using the stain Roy sells, so it will be correct.
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