| Engine24 | -- 09-27-2017 @ 9:14 AM |
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I get so many different suggestions for type oil for my original 32 flathead. Some are : 15/50 break in oil. ( which is difficult to find ) 10/40 30w Can anyone here suggest which type is correct?
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| CharlieStephens | -- 09-27-2017 @ 11:36 AM |
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If you are breaking in a new engine call the rebuilder and ask what he recommends. It may affect his warrantee. Charlie Stephens
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| Engine24 | -- 09-30-2017 @ 9:26 AM |
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It's an original 32 flathead that may have been rebuilt many years ago., so it is already broken oin many miles , and many years ago
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| 3w2 | -- 09-30-2017 @ 4:38 PM |
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The next question is about the climate the car is stored and driven in. If hot or warm year round, look for that 15/50. If part warm, part cold, 10/40 should be ideal. If neither hot nor cold year round, 30w would be a good bet.
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| Engine24 | -- 10-02-2017 @ 9:03 AM |
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I'm in Arizona, so mostly warm weather to hot . I'm glad you mention the same three types weights I have been hearing. With your additional input I think I may go with the 15/50. Thank you !
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| ken ct. | -- 10-02-2017 @ 2:01 PM |
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Use 20/50 Castrol or Valveoline. ken ct
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| Engine24 | -- 10-08-2017 @ 9:01 AM |
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A "friend " said that a "detergent" oil should not be used since " it will cause the bearings to loosen up" He also said that "all multigrade oil "has detergent I'm not sure he is right Thoughts?
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| Stroker | -- 10-08-2017 @ 9:30 AM |
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Engine24 your "friend" must be a real old dude to still cling to the "bearings loosening up". Just about any oil will work, and if the engine has only been run with non-detergent oil, the addition of detergents may begin to dissolve some of the sludge that has likely accumulated in the valve chest and oil pan. That said, if you want a non-multi-grade oil, just buy some Valvoline Racing oil, which is low detergent and can be sourced as a single grade. Personally, I like Valvoline Racing 40 weight. The "downside" though, is that you have to let the engine "warm-up" a bit when starting out, as 40 wt can be a little "stiff" when cold. Probably not a real problem in your warm climate though.
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| Engine24 | -- 10-08-2017 @ 11:33 AM |
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Yes. He is an old timer Mr Sounds like you know your stuff. So here is where I'm at I have 20/50 " detergent " oil that I can easily return NAPA has a 30 w " non detergent " readily available NAPA also has the Vavoline racing 40 w It sounds like all would be ok , but , Out of all three which would you choose. Thank you. I appreciate your help
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| TomO | -- 10-13-2017 @ 7:34 AM |
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I would never use a non-detergent oil in any engine. The detergents are added to keep sludge from forming and do not have much effect on sludge that has already formed. I would stick to the 750 - 1,000 mile change interval to keep the contaminants in the oil to a minimum. I would also use a multi-viscosity oil, they give better lubrication at all operating temperatures. When selecting a multi-viscosity oil the lower number is how the oil acts when cold and the higher number is how it acts when warm. The oil does not change its viscosity, the additives improve the stability of the viscosity. So if Ford recommended a 30W oil in the summer a 10W-30 would be great for your engine, if a 40W was recommended, a 10W-40 or a 20W-40 would be the one to use. I have gone to 10W-30 in my car as it runs cooler in hot weather with the thinner oil. Tom
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| Stroker | -- 10-15-2017 @ 10:49 AM |
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I believe I'd opt-for the Valvoline racing, as it has "some detergent", has a very high film strength, and being a "single-grade" oil, it "really-is" 40 weight. Multi-grades are simply the lower of the two numbers ie: (10-40) is actually a 10 weight oil containing "viscosity improvers" that prevent the oil thinning-out to a greater degree than a straight-grad 40 weight oil would when it gets hot. To me, "you get more oil" in a straight grade. Oil serves several purposes: Lubrication, cooling, and the removal of contaminants. In your 32, you want all three, but given the age and clearances in that old beast, I'd say that lubrication is high on the list. "Racing oil" is a very good lubricant.
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| carcrazy | -- 10-15-2017 @ 11:48 AM |
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My recommendation is to use a name brand SAE 30 weight detergent motor oil with Red Line Break-In Additive which contains the required zinc and other additives that were eliminated from the most recent motor oils. Pennzoil makes a straight 30 weight detergent oil that can be used with this additive.
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| Stroker | -- 10-15-2017 @ 1:04 PM |
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Car Crazy, our flatmotors don't need zinc unless you are running a racing camshaft and heavy valve springs. I doubt if engine24's stock 32 has either installed. Zinc functions as an extreme-pressure additive that "plates" the surface in areas of high contact pressure like cam lobes. Stock Ford "under-head-valve" V8's have a very low loading on their cam lobes as the valve train is much lighter than any overhead valve engine, and therefore utilizes much softer valve springs. The "need for zinc" is a scam IMHO.
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| Engine24 | -- 10-16-2017 @ 10:12 AM |
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Thanks
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| Engine24 | -- 10-16-2017 @ 10:15 AM |
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Well thanks everyone for your input. Does anyone know a good place to get a replacement 6volt battery for my stock 32?
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| TomO | -- 10-16-2017 @ 6:17 PM |
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Most of us use the Optima battery. It has better cold cranking ability and does not leak acid that will destroy you battery box. They sell them on Amazon. Before they redesigned the Optima, it would fit in a stock battery case after you removed the insides. The newer ones require a modification to your battery box if you want to install it in an original case. Do a search with Optima in the search box and be sure to click on All for the In The Past box. Tom
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