DJACK | -- 03-28-2010 @ 9:27 AM |
HI ALL I'M NEW AT THIS. I JUST BECAME OWNER OF A 1939 FORD DELUXE THAT MY DAD WAS RESTORING,HE PASTED AWAY DEC 03 2009. NOT SURE WARE TO START? This message was edited by DJACK on 3-28-10 @ 9:29 AM
|
|
TomO | -- 03-28-2010 @ 9:52 AM |
DJack, start with taking pictures with a digital camera of the car and all of the parts. Next, register on Photobucket.com and upload your pictures there. Now you can decide which parts need restoring and which parts can be used as is. Organize the parts that are to be used as is into labeled boxes or envelopes under major categories such as chassis, drive train, body and interior. Next organize the parts that are going to be restored in the same manner. Post a couple of photos of the car on this site, so that we can get an idea of the amount and type of work needed. Then we can give you some ideas of where to start. You should also consider joining the Early Ford V-8 Club and a regional group, buying the 38-39 book available in the online store of this site or on the Early Ford V-8 Foundation site. http://www.fordv8foundation.org/catalog.html Tom This message was edited by TomO on 3-28-10 @ 9:59 AM
|
|
DJACK | -- 03-28-2010 @ 4:26 PM |
HI TOM THANKS FOR REPLING. TO GET A LITTLE DEEPER INTO THIS. MY FATHER HAS RESTORED SEVERAL OLD FORDS. THIS ONE HE WAS IN THE STAGE OF PUTING BACK TOGETHER. IT'S PAINTED AND REDEAY FOR THE NEW INTERIOR. MY DAD AND I HAVE RESTORED A COUPLE CAR TOGETHER BUT I MORE INTO 60'S AND 70'S MUSCEL. THIS CAR IS BEFORE MY TIME. WHAT ARE GOOD REFURENCES ON WHAT IS ORIGINAL, LIKE WOODGRAINING DASH AND MOLDINGS. I WILL TRY TO GET PHOTOS SO YOU CAN SEE. THANKS AGAIN DENNIS
|
|
Tom/SC | -- 03-28-2010 @ 6:33 PM |
Dennis, is this car that you have a 39 convertible coupe, or a convertible sedan? I am asking this question because if it is in fact a convertble coupe, I might be able to help you with some information on this car. I performed a complete restoration on my 39 convertible coupe about five years ago. No doubt there are others who can offer you some helpful info also. Tom Byrd
|
|
DJACK | -- 03-28-2010 @ 7:35 PM |
YES THIS IS COUPE. MY DAD LOOKED FOR THIS CAR FOR 3 YEARS AND HE STARTED RESTORING IT 4 YEARS AGO HE PAST AWAY DEC 2009 AT THE AGE OF 81. This message was edited by DJACK on 3-29-10 @ 5:44 AM
|
|
DJACK | -- 03-29-2010 @ 6:18 AM |
I HAVE DOWN LOADED SOME PHOTOS TO Photobucket.com
|
|
TomO | -- 03-29-2010 @ 7:35 AM |
Dennis, you need to give us a link to your photos. See the instructions in the third topic in this Forum for instructions. The 38-39 Book is a good reference for originality. Tom
|
|
DJACK | -- 03-29-2010 @ 9:23 AM |
I HOPE THIS GETS YOU TO THE PHOTOS ALSO IF SOMEONE COULD TELL ME WHAT ITEMS IF ANY NEED TO BE WOOD GRAINED OTHER THAN DASH ,WINDSHIELD TRIM AND TOP OF THE DOOR TRIM THANKS AGAIN DENNIS http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab8/JACKBOYGT14/39%20FORD/DJACK%2039%20FORD/IMG_0504.jpg http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab8/JACKBOYGT14/39%20FORD/DJACK%2039%20FORD/scan0005.jpg http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab8/JACKBOYGT14/39%20FORD/DJACK%2039%20FORD/scan0004.jpg http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab8/JACKBOYGT14/39%20FORD/DJACK%2039%20FORD/scan0003.jpg This message was edited by DJACK on 3-29-10 @ 9:24 AM
|
|
Tom/SC | -- 03-29-2010 @ 7:11 PM |
Dennis,the items that you have mentioned are the only ones that should be woodgrained. You do need to buy the 38/39 Ford manual from the Early Ford V8 Club. It covers a great deal of the questions that you might have. That is a nice looking 39! Tom
|
|
DJACK | -- 03-30-2010 @ 6:27 AM |
I HAVE ORDERED THE BOOK. THANKS FOR THE HELP. CAN I SAND BLAST THE DASH AND MOLDING OR SHOULD I SOADA PLAST,WHICH IS BETTER?I WILL KEEP YOU INFORMED THANKS AGAIN DENNIS This message was edited by DJACK on 3-30-10 @ 6:29 AM
|
|
37 Coupe | -- 03-30-2010 @ 7:01 AM |
I wouldn'tthink it would be necessary to sandblast,can't believe the way car looked when it was maroon?,that they would be in bad rust shape. What I would do is use a paint stripper like spray on ZipStrip or a brush on and use steel wool or even wash with Brillo or SOS pads,any surface rust can be removed with Metal Prep or POR15 Metal ready with steel wool pads or Scotch Brite.Save blasting for heavy metal.
|
|
TomO | -- 03-30-2010 @ 7:16 AM |
Before you try to strip the paint from your parts, you should decide who is going to do the wood grain. Dennis, that is a very nice car. Is the last photo the current status of the car? has the wiring been done? I would have done the wiring before installing the front clip, but you should install the dash and wiring before you install the interior, it will give you more working room. If you are doing it yourself, I would recommend a chemical stripper. Both soda and sand blasting can develop enough heat to warp the metal. I would first hand sand the dash to get an idea of the base coat. This color could also be on the back of the moldings and the dash. If you are sending the parts out to be grained, contact the person doing the work and ask his opinion. I would also let him do the stripping. That way if the paint fails, he cannot blame poor preparation on you. Here is a photo of a correctly restored 39 dash. This was taken at the Early Ford V-8 Foundation Museum. It is not quite clear as the glass door of the display case is covering most of it. Tom
|
|
DJACK | -- 03-30-2010 @ 8:58 AM |
Yes it's how it is right know. I'm looking to see if he has got new wiring. What should I pay for woodgraining an who have you used? The dash is a little rusty on the back but good in the front. The last owner painted the dash just a base brown. thanks Dennis
|
|
Tom/SC | -- 03-30-2010 @ 1:35 PM |
Dennis, I use a bead blaster machine using a very fine media with the air pressure turned down low, just enough to remove paint, rust, or any other material from the metal. I would not sand blast,you risk warping the metal from overheating the metal. Also I use "ospho" or another like rust killer after I bead blast them. Then you can sand them and re-woodgrain them. Tom
|
|
DJACK | -- 03-30-2010 @ 4:14 PM |
Does anyone out there have a photo of a 39 original dash so I can see what they look like. Thanks Dennis
|
|
Tom/SC | -- 03-30-2010 @ 5:50 PM |
Dennis, I use a bead blaster to clean these small parts. Turn the pressure to low with a fine abrasive,and remove paint ,rust and any other material. Then I use "ospho" or an equivilant to stop any rust. Then the parts can be sanded and then wood grained. Sandblasting is too harsh, can warp the metal from friction heat. Soda blasting should remove paint, and some light rust. Good luck with your 39. Tom
|
|
Tom/SC | -- 03-30-2010 @ 5:54 PM |
Dennis, I use a bead blaster to clean these small parts. Turn the pressure to low with a fine abrasive,and remove paint ,rust and any other material. Then I use "ospho" or an equivilant to stop any rust. Then the parts can be sanded and then wood grained. Sandblasting is too harsh, can warp the metal from friction heat. Soda blasting should remove paint, and some light rust. Good luck with your 39. Tom
|
|
donclink | -- 03-31-2010 @ 3:58 AM |
Dennis, attached is a photo of the '39 Ford dash that was restored by the Northern Ohio Regional Group and donated to the Early Ford V-8 Foundation last September.
|
|
DJACK | -- 03-31-2010 @ 7:03 AM |
Thanks for the photo of the dash. I think you guys are going to make this venture a much smoother ride. Does anyone know a good wood grainer that is reasonable but still authentic?
|
|
trjford8 | -- 03-31-2010 @ 8:18 AM |
Dennis, you might look up Bob Kennedy who is in California or Lauren Matley who is in Arizona and is the V-8 Club paint advisor. Both are listed in the V-8 Club roster.Both have done woodgraing for a long time so they know what is correct. Not sure about prices, but you get what you pay for when it comes to this type of work.
|
|
37 Coupe | -- 03-31-2010 @ 9:57 AM |
I agree I have seen both mens work,years ago I had Bob Kennedy do all the dash and mouldings, door window sills and windshield on a 39 Ford convertble coupe absolutely beautiful and correct. Seems like it was around $500.00 and this was probably 17 years ago.
|
|
Tom/SC | -- 03-31-2010 @ 10:24 AM |
Dennis and others, I apologize for the triple message! I keep forgetting that it takes a while for the message to post! My wood grain in my 39 convertible coupe was done by Grain-it technologies in Florida. They did a beautiful job I think. Tom/SC
|
|
DJACK | -- 03-31-2010 @ 10:33 AM |
DOES ANYONE HAVE CONTACT INFORMATION ON THERE WOOD GRAINING GUYS ,BOB KENNY, LAUREN MATLEY OR GRAIN IT TECH. THANKS DENNIS
|
|
37 Coupe | -- 03-31-2010 @ 12:37 PM |
I am getting this info from a business card Bob Kennedy sent me years ago ,mayby different now or area code? Bob Kennedy 8609 Oceanview Whittier,Ca. 90605 (310) 693-8739.Just looked in newest V-8 Times roster and everything looks the same except area code is now 562,if he is still doing this type work Ford restorers are d*mn*d lucky.
|
|
trjford8 | -- 03-31-2010 @ 7:44 PM |
Bob is still on Oceanview Ave. as I was just there in February when a friend dropped off his dash and moldings for his 32. DJACK, I hope you will join the V-8 Club as the magazine and the club roster are well worth the price of admission. The magazine will give you acess to parts suppliers ,etc. that can help you with your project.
|
|
TomO | -- 04-01-2010 @ 7:28 AM |
Here is a link to a vendor that has a new process that is less labor intensive than most processes. Make sure that you specify the wood grain shown on the photo of the 39 dash when you ask for a quote. http://mmcustomfinishing.com/Site/Home.html Tom
|
|
Stroker | -- 04-01-2010 @ 9:22 AM |
TomO: Thats a really interesting process. Not to discredit the beautiful handiwork of those who have painstakingly hand-painted their wood grained metal parts, but this is probably closer to the lithograph process that was originally employed.
|
|
DJACK | -- 04-01-2010 @ 9:43 AM |
Where can I find the body vin # and the proper car code for this 39 ford deluxe convertible 2dr Thanks Dennis This message was edited by DJACK on 4-1-10 @ 9:44 AM
|
|
trjford8 | -- 04-01-2010 @ 9:18 PM |
You will find the ID/VIN number on top of the left frame rail. It will be somewhere between the firewall and the front crossmember. Most likely it will be near the front crossmember. It begins and ends with a star and the first two number will be 18-.
|
|
ford38v8 | -- 04-01-2010 @ 10:45 PM |
DJACK, your body code is 91A-76A Alan
|
|
DJACK | -- 04-04-2010 @ 7:43 AM |
Thanks I found the vin # are there any decoding to the vin # ? Dennis
|
|
DJACK | -- 04-04-2010 @ 7:53 AM |
I have a question about the 39 fords in general. What is the reliability and how far can they be driven in a day’s time? They say no question is the only dumb one......
|
|
trjford8 | -- 04-04-2010 @ 8:48 AM |
The VIN/ID number is only a production number. It only tells what month the chassis was built. In regards to how far you could drive a 39 in a day it depends on a lot of factors.Road conditions, weather conditions, vehicle condition, driver condition, whether wife or girlfriend is in the car(how often she needs to stop for coffee or a rest stop),traffic conditions(city, urban, open road),etc. In all fairness, if the car and driver were in excellent condition you should be able to travel 400-500 miles a day without stressing the car or driver.
|
|
TomO | -- 04-04-2010 @ 9:51 AM |
For trip planning purposes, I schedule an average of 50mph on interstates and 45 mph on state highways. The average does not include lunch breaks, but does include a 5 minute break every 2 hours. This schedule allows you to drive 55mph on the interstates. Tom
|
|
DJACK | -- 04-04-2010 @ 11:31 AM |
One more question. All my father has for paperwork is a bill of sale when he bought it a couple of year ago. Did a 39 come with a title? Can I get a title with this paperwork? Thanks again Dennis
|
|
48Tudor | -- 04-04-2010 @ 12:09 PM |
Depends on the state in which you try to title/register the car and which state the bill of sale is from. Many states do not recognize bill of sales from some certain southern states.. Some states will want a bond. Try to contact a local law enforcement officer and see if you can run the chassis number to see if pops up as being a problem. chr
|
|
trjford8 | -- 04-04-2010 @ 8:23 PM |
If you inherited this car through your father's estate there may be paperwork you can file to get title. Check with your local motor vehicle department to see what they require for paperwork for this process.
|
|
DJACK | -- 04-05-2010 @ 2:44 PM |
HI TOM S/C I HAVE ATTACHED A PHOTO OF THE RADIO THAT WAS IN THIS CAR IS IT THE CORRECT RADIO? ALSO WERE DID YOU FIND THE CHROME FOR THE DASH? THANKS DENNIS http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab8/JACKBOYGT14/39%20FORD/39FORDRADIO.jpg This message was edited by DJACK on 4-5-10 @ 3:49 PM
|
|
DJACK | -- 04-06-2010 @ 12:18 PM |
On the 1939 flat head where did they stamp the frame # to the engine block? Thanks Dennis
|
|
deluxe40 | -- 04-06-2010 @ 1:05 PM |
The frame number was not stamped on the engine block. It is supposed to be stamped on the transmission directly above the inspection hole cover. There is a famous photo of Henry Ford stamping V8 #1 in this location. However, the transmission might have been changed over the years, so it might not be there. I have also seen quite a few transmissions without numbers. Maybe those were replacements or maybe somebody on the production line didn't get the memo about stamping transmissions.
|
|
42wagon | -- 04-06-2010 @ 1:16 PM |
This question seems to come up every couple of months. At the Rouge engine assembly plant engines were stamped with sequential serial numbers. Because Ford realised that in all probability the engine would not last the life of the car without rebuilding the number was stamped on the transmission above the little door to inspect the clutch. When the engine got to an assembly plant and was installed in a frame the serial number was transferred to three places along the top of the left frame rail. One is between the radiator and the cowl. The other two are under the body. The serial number tells you nothing except when the engine was assembled.
|
|
Tom/SC | -- 04-06-2010 @ 3:12 PM |
Dennis, the radio that you have pictured here is the same one that my 39 convertible coupe has in it from the factory. There should also be a black box with a single stud on the back that mounts on the firewall inside the car just above the steering column. I have seen Dearborn winning 39 open cars with different style radios installed, There were three different styles used in 39. I dont see how a judge could deduct any points if the 39 has either style installed. The style that you have is an F-1641 Philco. In the 38/39 restoration manual which Gary Mallast did a fantastic job compiling,he describes this radio as being a Motorola ,but later someone corrected to say that it is in fact an F-1641 Philco. I hope this might help you! Tom/SC
|
|
Tom/SC | -- 04-06-2010 @ 3:20 PM |
Dennis the chrome on my dash was in good shape so I had it replated and used it. Place a "wanted" ad on this website asking for this trim, and you might find some that you can use. If yours is not bent or damaged, you can have it replated. Then you will need to paint the small indention in each piece with red paint. Most of it that you find probably will have some rust on it. Are you speaking of the small piece between the guages and the speedometer? And the two pieces on either side of the clock? Tom
|
|
DJACK | -- 04-06-2010 @ 9:05 PM |
Yes I have the strips between the gages and by the clock are ok I.m still looking for the long strip across the the top. I got the book for the 38 and 39 Fords. I can see already how much help it will be. Thanks again for your help. Thanks Dennis
|
|
Tom/SC | -- 04-07-2010 @ 6:11 AM |
Dennis that is a stainless strip across the dash. Not easy to find one. I will look thru my pile of stuff to see if I might have one extra. Tom
|
|
DJACK | -- 04-07-2010 @ 8:21 AM |
TOM /SC COULD YOU GET ME A PHOTO OF YOUR DASH WITH THE RADIO IN IT . SOMEONE CUT THE DASH OUT AROUND THE CONTROL KNOBS. I NEED TO GET THE DASH BACK TO ORIGINAL BEFOR I SEND IT OUT FOR WOOD GRAINING. THSNKS DENNIS
|
|
Tom/SC | -- 04-07-2010 @ 12:22 PM |
Dennis, yes I will go out to the garage and make some photos of the dash including the radio holes and send them to you. Tom
|
|
DJACK | -- 04-07-2010 @ 2:56 PM |
HAY TOM I FOUND ALL THE MOLDINGS FOR THE DASH. THEY ARE IN PRITTY GOOD SHAPE, COULD USE A RECHROME ANY IDEAS. DENNIS
|
|
c-gor | -- 04-07-2010 @ 3:00 PM |
DJACK I can put you in touch with the person who woodgrained the 1939 Dash that was donated to the Ford Foundation If interested please respond
|
|
DJACK | -- 04-07-2010 @ 4:06 PM |
Yes thanks alot Dennis
|
|
DJACK | -- 04-08-2010 @ 7:58 AM |
Almost ready to for my next step. Looking at the glass,looks like the door glass needs replacing it's bubbled at bottom. I'm still looking for windshield. Where is a good glass contact. Thanks again for all your help. Dennis
|
|
TomO | -- 04-08-2010 @ 10:23 AM |
Sanders glass will make new glass that fits your car, with the correct logos. http://sandersreproglass.com/ or you can take your old glass to a local glass shop and have them cut you new glass to fit your car and then buy the "Bug" kit from Carleton Enterprises. http://www.fordscript.com/ Tom
|
|
EFV-8 Club Forum : | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum |
Topic: | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=999 |