| tommyleea | -- 08-14-2016 @ 8:09 PM |
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53 flathead ready for machine shop. I have the flathead tore down and ready for the machine shop, so I thought. I bought Ron's book on the flathead, and he mentions sending it to the stripper prior to the machine shop. I am not familiar with this process. Is this a shop that is separate from the machine shop? Guess it should say stripper vs hot tank... This message was edited by tommyleea on 8-15-16 @ 6:51 AM
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| ford38v8 | -- 08-14-2016 @ 9:39 PM |
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You don't want to drop a wad of money on it with machining, only to discover later that you have a block that is not worthy of rebuilding. All blocks, including a block you were running prior to teardown, should be boiled out, scoped out, shake & baked, magna fluxed, pressure tested, and sent for a reading by the local fortune teller before deciding whether to invest time & money in machining it. Alan
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| CharlieStephens | -- 08-14-2016 @ 9:40 PM |
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The first step in finding one of these places is to put your location in your post (and in your profile) and maybe someone will know of one close. Charlie Stephens
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| TomO | -- 08-15-2016 @ 5:28 PM |
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I would not send the block to a stripper. Some of the stripping and de-rusting chemicals will not be kind to the block. A good machine shop will have a hot tank and a hot bake oven to clean and loosen all of the debris in the water jackets. Let the machine shop take care of the block prep for you. Tom
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| tommyleea | -- 09-21-2016 @ 6:16 AM |
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Well, I heard back from the machine shop yesterday, and all the parts are good for a rebuild. Except of course for the broken camshaft. Now on to the machining and parts ordering.
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| pauls39coupe | -- 09-21-2016 @ 9:09 AM |
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I hope your shop magnifluxed the webs around the cam bearings. Broken cams often put a lot of pressure on the surrounding castings. It gets real expensive to find cracks after the machine work is done. You can't get flatheads clean enough. We have been having our machine shop clean the block and magniflux it all over to be sure there are no cracks in the valve seats, bores , pan rails or webbing. Stripping costs $100 to $150, so you don't want to spend that much, only to find out later that the block is cracked. We then take the block to a stripper where it is immersed in chemical baths to remove the old paint, and any rust inside and out. They will flush their chemicals and coat the block with a rust preventative. On the way back to the machine shop we'll spend 10 minutes or so at a car wash flushing the water jackets again. It is amazing how much cr*p will still be left inside. Ford did not spend a lot of effort cleaning out casting sand etc., you may still find a lot of it in the water jackets. Stripping and repeated cleaning is the only way to get it all out. The machinist does his magic, then flushes the block again to remove all the metal shavings.
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| 51f1 | -- 09-25-2016 @ 11:47 AM |
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The machine shop should "hot-tank" the block. Hot-tanking cleans the block inside and out. Using a stripper is not necessary. Thoroughly wash the block before painting. Richard
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| tommyleea | -- 09-26-2016 @ 8:21 AM |
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Yes, machine shop did hot tank, magnaflux, mic, and the engine is good to go for a rebuild. Machine shop been around since the 30's, so I trust them. Machine work being done now, and getting prepared for the new parts. Appreciate all the info.
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