| deskjet894 | -- 06-12-2016 @ 5:52 PM |
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I have a 1934 Ford V8. After a driving the car (170 degrees)and then stopping and letting the engine idle it will overheat (200 degrees). What is the proper water temperature for this engine? What should I look at to stop the overheating? What would be the best water pump to install?
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| MG | -- 06-12-2016 @ 5:58 PM |
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Sounds fairly normal to me....If it ain't boiling, it ain't over heating....
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| 40 Coupe | -- 06-13-2016 @ 4:23 AM |
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I also do not feel that 200 degrees is overheating. It is on the high side but this is what you could expect after driving. If you start driving again does the temperature then drop? Both George Skip Haney who rebuilds your pumps with a higher flow impeller and more modern seals as well as Daryl Fryer have quality rebuilds. Check both places. They are both in the V8 Times.
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| TomO | -- 06-13-2016 @ 8:03 AM |
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If the drive was just around town and the air temperature was in the mid 80's or cooler, I would look at the radiator and fan. Make sure that your radiator is clean both inside and outside. Check that the fan is within 1/2" of the radiator. The radiator fins should be in good contact with the tubes and not bent. Tom
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| TomO | -- 06-14-2016 @ 7:07 AM |
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I also would make sure that the oil pan is filled with 5 quarts of oil. I like to use 10w-30 as it is closest to the Ford recommendations. When I switched back from 20w-50, my car ran cooler around town. Tom
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| VT/JeffH | -- 06-16-2016 @ 3:52 PM |
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Deskjet894 said "What should I look at to stop the overheating? " The 1934 Ford that has not been, well, creatively repaired, sometime over the last eighty years is pretty rare so we need a little more detail. I'm not familiar with your car/situation so please excuse a question or two. Are we discussing a vehicle that is presented as period correct? Since it's cooling we're talking about, for example is it a period style radiator, fan & mount, etc., or these symptoms on a car with an electric cooling fan? Are you really overheating? Are you spilling fluid because that's where the line is at in my world? Even then it may be within expected operating conditions for some situations. Forgive me, but these systems are not maintenance-free like our 15psi pressurized systems in our modern vehicles. There is no recovery or pressurization in original like systems. When my main driver, a 1936 engine (I think), which I have about 5+K miles on, gets warm, say from a 30 minute normal drive. When I stop the temp always goes up for the first fifteen minutes or so. I've gotten into the habit of opening the hood when I park. Especially if it's just a short stop. This helps the engine to cool when I'm doing shopping for example. That same car will also get the gauge all the way to the top if I go 30 minutes then hit some stop-n-go, or idling for ten minutes or so. But, knock-wood, that car has never spilt fluids. Now lately I've been driving a '35 for only a couple of hundred miles. This car's gauge is reading lower than the '36, and it is not holding all it's juice. In the middle of one drive recently I added about 1.5 gal. I'm still in the very early stages of working with this '35 so will be doing diagnosis of cooling system and others. -VT/JeffH
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| JM | -- 06-20-2016 @ 5:35 AM |
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Deskjet, my '35 fordor sedan will do the same thing as yours is doing under the same conditions and I am probably running all the cooling features and settings that are available. The only thing I can probably do at this point is have the radiator professionally cleaned. John
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| 1935ford | -- 07-02-2016 @ 8:15 AM |
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Been experiencing some overheating (occasional boiling at ambient temps above 80F) with my '35 sedan. Measured fan to radiator clearances: 5/8" at top, 2 1/4" at bottom. Have an alternator installed but belt alignment looks v.g. Anyone else observe this? Solutions? (I'm considering designing a tapered spacer to place between the alternator bracket and intake manifold.) Thanks! R.J.
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