| chuck g | -- 05-24-2016 @ 11:25 PM |
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I just purchased a 1950 ford custom with a flathead v-8 in it. This car was parked in a garage for almost 40 years without starting the engine. it ran when parked. it has 48,000 miles on it. my question is what should I do to try to start it? or more importantly what should I not do?
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| Grant | -- 05-25-2016 @ 4:22 AM |
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We had exactly the same situation with a low mileage '50 coupe from a local estate that had been stored since 1958. If you want to discuss what had to be done to the engine to get the car going again, you can reach me at 519-666-2891.
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| ken ct. | -- 05-25-2016 @ 5:08 AM |
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50 coupes are my favorite except for those ugly add on fins on the rear fenders , ive seen a few of them back in the day and they were ugly then and more so now. ken ct LOL. Sorry if I offended you.
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| cliftford | -- 05-25-2016 @ 5:47 AM |
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I would drain the old oil,even if it looks clean, drain filter and refill. replace element, unhook the fuel line at the inlet side of the pump, remove spark plugs and squrit oil into the cylinders and crank the it until it shows oil pressure. Then drain,, clean and refill fuel tank before you try to start it Or hook up a temporary scource of fuel to the carburetor. One more thing, try to find some no ethonol gas to start it. corn gas might plug up the whole fuel system. This message was edited by cliftford on 5-25-16 @ 5:53 AM
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| len47merc | -- 05-25-2016 @ 7:14 AM |
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cliftford gives good advice. Will add a few additional things. Do not crank the engine for more than 10 seconds before allowing the starter to cool down for 30 seconds or so, then another 10 second run/30 second cool down, etc. - don't want to burn it up. Secondly I'd recommend disconnecting the fuel line at both ends and filling it up completely with Sea Foam (plug the fuel tank end when the Sea Foam begins to flow out), using a pipette to inject it into the line, then let it sit overnight before blowing it out with compressed air and repeating the process until the line runs clean (put an old white sock over the fuel tank end to catch whatever blows out). Check the fuel line for rust/leaks as it sets. If you have not already drained and cleaned out the fuel tank to purge all the lacquered fuel and debris out you should do that before reconnecting the fuel line and installing the ethanol free fuel. Drain as much of the coolant out and refill with pure distilled water for the time being. You will want to drain and refill it again after you get it running so don't waste $s on antifreeze now. Many other thoughts - sure others will weigh in here. And btw, use MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil) to insert into the cylinders as you begin to turn it over. Don't be stingy with it - a squirt is too little, a tablespoon minimum each cylinder. And don't forget to be sure when you begin to try to crank it in earnest that you have it outdoors with your garage doors and windows closed and the exhaust pointed downwind directly into your neighbor's open garage. Steve
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| cliftford | -- 05-25-2016 @ 9:08 AM |
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Steve had some more good advice which I concur with. Here is a rule of thumb: Any moving part which has not moved in 4 or 5 years or longer, needs to be checked for lubrication before it is moved. Such as the drive train, wheels, steering, etc. Words to live by. Gene
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| Grant | -- 05-25-2016 @ 4:12 PM |
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Definitely those aftermarket ducktail P38 fins look goofy. Why original owner Warren Davis drilled eight holes through the tops of perfect quarter panels to install them, I have never understood. But welding those holes shut +-50 years later would have made a mess of the nice factory black paint, so the fins stayed on. Maybe a front shot looks better ..............
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| TomO | -- 05-26-2016 @ 8:20 AM |
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Those fins were all the rage in 1950 and 1951. Everyone wanted their Ford to look like a Cadillac. Between Western Auto and JC Whitney, they must have sold thousands of them. Tom
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