| Rickauf | -- 05-18-2016 @ 11:35 AM |
|
Hi All, d winterizing my Dads 40 merc,, car has not really been driven in 4 years. Drained and replaced gas. charged up battery. new coolant. Need to change oil. I have a few boxes of 'green brand?) oil that he said to use. a few questions. 1. how many quarts will the 40 Flathead require? 2. when i run out of the 'special oil' whats the best to use? 3. WHAT KIND OF OIL FILTER do i need? do i need to order one from a specialty shop...or is it somethng i can pick up at Napa? thanks! Rick Regards, Rick Aufderheide
|
|
| Drbrown | -- 05-18-2016 @ 9:52 PM |
|
1. 5 qts with filter. Check dip stick after filling to be sure there is an adequate amount. Depending on the dip stick that came with your engine, sometimes it may read slightly above the full mark. 2. Most recommend against mixing different brands and viscosity of oils. Use the Forums search engine to view endless discussions about "favored" oils. Condition of your engine, driving habits, and your local affect these considerations. Since the engine hasn't been run in 4 years, I'd recommend changing the oil again at say 500 miles. I have no filter and normally change my oil every 1000 miles or at least once per year. 3. When you remove the existing oil filter from its canister, look for labels on it regarding make and model number. Good idea to measure its diameter and height. It may not still be in production but most places can match one-up to it. This is also a broadly debated issue within the Forums. This message was edited by Drbrown on 5-18-16 @ 10:01 PM
|
|
| TomO | -- 05-19-2016 @ 7:44 AM |
|
NAPA 1006 should fit your filter housing. The 40 Mercury oil pan requires 5 quarts of oil. It has been a long time since I had a filter on my Mercury, but it seems that the filter took another 1/2 quart. The Texaco chart that I have shows that 1 qt is added with the filter, I cannot find any Ford specs. I use a major brand 10w-30 oil in my 40 Mercury. IMHO there is no need for a special oil. There is a shelf life of motor oil. https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/what-is-the-shelf-life-of-motor-oil Tom
|
|
| len47merc | -- 05-19-2016 @ 9:00 AM |
|
Your reference to 'green oil' is likely Brad Penn (aka 'The Green Oil') which, as a racing engine oil, is not regulated the same way as conventional oils (Valvoline, Pennzoil, Castrol, etc.) and is allowed very high levels ZDDP (zinc & phosphorous components) that some, I repeat - some, feel is better for a flathead and more similar to the oils 'back then'. Jury is out for me on that point; however, I do believe their straight 30W Break-In oil, which has levels of ZDDP well beyond their post-break-in multi-weight oils, is very good for the first 500 miles on a new motor, then another change for the next 1,000 miles. After break-in I have to agree with TomO on weight and defer to your personal preference on brand - all majors should be fine. I use WIX filters on all my cars including the '47 59AB. Easy to source for the '47 from all major parts suppliers. Steve
|
|
| kubes40 | -- 05-19-2016 @ 9:31 AM |
|
I believe TomO provided you with very good advice. At least through 1940, Ford did not advise an extra amount of oil for a vehicle equipped with the optional filter. Ford specified 5 quarts - period. Oil filter elements are common place and as such readily available. Napa #1006, Purolater #P-34, Fram #C4, AC #P1209, Foird #7HA-6731, Wix #51006.. It's been a long time since I had my formal training as an automotive technician. Still, I do recall quite clearly that one should avoid mixing brands of oil. IF there is no choice, it is always best to obtain oil refined from the same area. IE Texas crude or PA. crude.
|
|
| EFV-8 Club Forum : | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum |
| Topic: | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=9682 |