| old1936ford | -- 03-22-2010 @ 6:26 PM |
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I'm in a bind. A guy with a transmission shop was helping me pull the trany. We pulled the rear end back 2 or 3 inches. Then he had to leave because of an emergency. Will be gone for some time. I have a guy that will help me try to get the trany to another shop a few miles away. I'm stuck on how to drop the tail of the trany or how to pull it away from the motor. I took the bolt out of the mount. I don't see how to get the hub (over the universal joint) off. Any ideas would help. Thanks!
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 03-23-2010 @ 5:46 AM |
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you should have help doing this,you are going to have to pull the rear back more so the front of driveshaft CLEARS , this will let the trany come back away from the flywheel and clutch, also make sure you use a board and jack under the oil pan so it does not fall down, the rear trans mount is also holding the trans and engine up, but once you secure the motor, you can remove the bolts in the rear trans mount, the trans gets pulled up and out,cover your interior MAKE SURE YOU HAVE HELP,doing this is not really a one man job not unless your are 20 lets hear how you made out,37RAGTOPMAN
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| supereal | -- 03-23-2010 @ 9:11 AM |
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Remove the bolt holding the u-joint to the tail shaft of the transmission, and pull off the joint to increase clearance. When the clutch linkage is disconnected and the bolts holding the transmission to the clutch housing are out, straddle the transmission as you sit on the seat, and holding on to the shift lever, ease it back and out of the pressure plate. There is nothing wrong with having a support ready to catch the transmission when it is cleared, but usually you can lift it out and set it down to allow you to pull it on out of the door. If the transmission balks at moving back from the clutch housing, you can hook it thru the inspection hole to assist. We use a homemade tool that looks like a baling hook for that, and to give us a second grip on the unit.
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| trjford8 | -- 03-23-2010 @ 6:54 PM |
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As Ragtopman said, be sure to put good covers on your upholstery. Invariably you will get a spot of grease on the interior seats or panels if you do not cover them.
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| old1936ford | -- 03-23-2010 @ 7:27 PM |
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Removed the whole seat & was real carful. The good news-Removed the trany. Bad news the spacer next to the gear on the main shaft had a big peice out of it along with some of the teeth on the main shaft. Now I need to find some GOOD parts. Any ideas? I've had good luck with stuff from C&G. The throwout bearing was shot after less than a 1000 miles. Came from Mac's. Will also change the pilot bearing while it is apart. After I locate parts I will try to reinstall. Not to sure that it will be anywhere near easy. Any other ideas? Previous post were a great help. I would still be tring to take it out from the bottom. THANKS, Joe
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| 39 Ken | -- 03-24-2010 @ 5:06 AM |
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Start with Mac VanPelt. He has Ford trannies as well as part to rebuild. Here's a link to his transmission website. http://www.vanpeltsales.com/VPPSweb/VPPS-homepg.htm
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| deluxe40 | -- 03-24-2010 @ 9:56 AM |
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One tip that has served me well is to cut the heads off of a couple of bolts that are the same as the ones used to bolt the transmission to the engine, but about three inches long. When these are scr*w*d into the two top bolt holes in the block they can be used to guide the transmission into place.
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| supereal | -- 03-24-2010 @ 10:22 AM |
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Using cut off bolts as pilot pegs is always a good idea. We, too, have had good results with C&G transmission parts. Be sure to use a good disk locating tool when ready to reassemble, and scour the flywheel face with a Scotchbrite pad or wheel to deglaze it. Check the roller bearings inside the cluster for any debris from the broken spacer. Also, look carefully at the release fork spring (48-7562) to see if it has wear or damage at the ends.
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