| fenbach | -- 05-11-2016 @ 9:47 PM |
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I have a tiny water leak in the no. 1 cylinder of a '36 LB block. I see drops of water slowly form on the block directly below the spark plug hole. has anyone used K-seal? and gotten results? or recommend another product? the leak stops once the engine cools. This message was edited by fenbach on 5-11-16 @ 10:32 PM
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| carcrazy | -- 05-11-2016 @ 11:03 PM |
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You can use Bar's Stop Leak to stop coolant from leaking out of cracks in the engine block.
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| TomO | -- 05-12-2016 @ 6:45 AM |
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Your description has me wondering if the seepage is from the block, head gasket or head. I am going to assume that it is the head, because you said the leak is just below the #1 plug. Do you still have the original aluminum heads? If so, this is probably an early indication of the heads failing. Almost any stop leak will plug this type of leak. I prefer the AlunaSeal powder type of leak sealer. It does not plug up the radiator and seems to stay in solution until it finds a leak and air. Tom
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| fenbach | -- 05-12-2016 @ 11:22 AM |
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tom, the seepage is definitely from the block. I see beads of water form at the lip of the cylinder hole, then drip onto the piston. in fact, one time a small jet of water was squirting out. I have cast iron heads. I have radiator cleaner and water in the cooling system now and plan to try the K-seal in spite of what you and carcrazy say. according to their web site -http://www.kseal.com/ - it's great stuff. i'll report the results. I put bars leak in the system about 2 years ago when I cleaned it and put in fresh coolant because the drain cocks were seeping. either it lost it's effectiveness or wasn't up to sealing the crack in the block. bob
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| TomO | -- 05-12-2016 @ 4:34 PM |
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Bob, I tried several block sealers in my 40 Merc, after the machine shop cracked the block in several places while trying to remove the studs. Everyone of them had the same problem, they caused the water pumps to seize, without sealing the crack. The sealer leaked past the poor seals in the Ford pumps and coated the impeller shaft and seized the shaft to the bushing. If you have the modern pumps, with sealed bearings, you will probably be OK. Tom
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| MG | -- 05-12-2016 @ 5:24 PM |
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fenbach - See this thread from the 'Ford Barn' > http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=191706&highlight=kseal
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| fenbach | -- 05-13-2016 @ 6:58 PM |
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thanks MG for the link. the boys on fordbarn seem to like K-seal, but TomO's experience is giving me 2nd thoughts. I do have skip haney rebuilt pumps but they still have bushings, not sealed bearings. i'm planning now to start with alumaseal powder and go from there. again, i'll report back.
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| fenbach | -- 09-09-2016 @ 4:39 PM |
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time for an update. I put K-seal in. my water pumps did not seize. thankfully. unfortunately, the K-seal didn't seal the crack in the block. entirely, anyway. it slowed the leak, but a tiny amount of coolant+K-seal still seeps into the combustion chamber after I shut the engine off. I don't seem to be losing coolant as i drive. and coincidentally, the engine is running better than ever! even so, I just bought a '37 block with intentions of replacing the cracked '36 block. i'm keeping my fingers crossed that the studs come out. anyone have a pair of water pump block-off plates??
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| Sneezer | -- 09-09-2016 @ 5:02 PM |
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I have a pair of NOS plates. You can have them for what I have in them, $38, plus shipping. Regards: Arnie PH 715 577 2875
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