| 46coupe | -- 04-07-2016 @ 9:00 AM |
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Back again. Can not find the post that tells me what terminals I connect to on the regulator to continue using neg ground. Please refresh my memory. The other concern is---- got rid of the 8 volt battery since it would not perform under load. Bought a 6 volt today and it turns the engine too slow to start. Guy at the parts store said it was fully charged. Everything worked and the car started 3 months ago before it went up on stands. Shall I jump the new battery, take it back or go down the street and have a quick charge put on it? Thanks for the help.
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| CharlieStephens | -- 04-07-2016 @ 10:42 AM |
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Since I don’t have the whole story I will make one up and ask if it sounds familiar. The original 6 volt battery was replaced with an 8 volt battery since the car cranked too slow. This was done at the advice of someone that didn’t know what he was talking about but wanted to sound like he did. No one cleaned the grounds, probably the most common problem. Take the connections off and clean every one down to bare metal. Make sure all of the connectors are tight and soldered. Did someone replace the old cables with “new” ones from the local auto parts store? Most counter men in modern auto parts stores don’t realize that the 6 volt cables are larger diameter than the 12 volt cables and the ones they sell you will be too small and the vehicle will crank slowly. Buy cables from a trusted vendor or have them made at a welding supply shop. Are there enough grounds in the car? Remember that the ground strap should be one designed or 6 volts and not the modern 12. Are there enough ground straps? Regardless of what should be on a correct show car I like to run the original ground strap to the firewall or frame (depending on year) and then run from that same bolt to the engine next to the starter. Then I like to ground the engine to the frame. You can’t have too many grounds. Finally has any tested the starter? Check out the areas I mentioned and you should solve your problem. As far as a “quick charge” goes, I would tell the store to keep it over night (or buy your own charger). As far as the terminals on the regulator go I would find a “motor’s repair manual” for the year of the vehicle you electrical charging system came from and follow it. Since you age going back to 6 volts why don't you just keep the positive ground and follow the diagram in your owner's manual? Charlie Stephens This message was edited by CharlieStephens on 4-7-16 @ 10:44 AM
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| 46coupe | -- 04-07-2016 @ 11:21 AM |
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Thanks for all the suggestions. Ground wires were cleaned and go from the battery to engine, engine to body. I will check for other grounds and clean them as suggested, I didn't know about the difference in battery cables so I will order new ones. The starter turned over great the last time I started it (3 mos ago)so I'll check that as well. You're right about going back to positive ground. The car is pretty much all original and should be set up as such. Thanks again.
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| CharlieStephens | -- 04-07-2016 @ 1:23 PM |
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RESPONDING TO: "Thanks for all the suggestions. Ground wires were cleaned and go from the battery to engine, engine to body. I will check for other grounds and clean them as suggested, I didn't know about the difference in battery cables so I will order new ones. The starter turned over great the last time I started it (3 mos ago)so I'll check that as well. You're right about going back to positive ground. The car is pretty much all original and should be set up as such. Thanks again. " From your first post I thought you had the 8 volt battery in it 3 months ago and now you have a 6 volt and need to find the real problem. Charlie Stephens This message was edited by CharlieStephens on 4-7-16 @ 1:26 PM
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| 46coupe | -- 04-07-2016 @ 1:39 PM |
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Yeah, the 8 volt worked. Then 2 days ago I tried to start the car and the engine turned over very slow. Charged the battery which showed 8.2 V on the meter. Still no help so I took it to a repair shop and he ran a load test on it, which failed. Picked up the new battery today. Shows 6.2 V and same problem. The store asked me to bring it back. In the meantime since last posting, I ordered a new positive to solenoid cable which is a duplicate of the original, ie, thicker wire. While waiting I will start testing connections and finish cleaning another ground strap I found.
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| TomO | -- 04-08-2016 @ 7:56 AM |
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Here is a link to your previous post http://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=9237&keywords= To determine the procedure to go back to POS ground, you need to know what steps were taken to change it to NEG ground or replace the voltage regulator and coil with new ones that are POS ground. Then you need to reverse the wires going to your ammeter so it reads correctly. If your starter still turns slow after replacing the cables, you will need to use a voltmeter to determine where the problem is. If you feel comfortable using a voltmeter, I can give you the method to isolate your problem. Tom
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| JT Ford | -- 04-08-2016 @ 11:25 AM |
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Be sure that the 48 inch cable from the starter solenoid to the starter is a heavy cable also.
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| 46coupe | -- 04-08-2016 @ 2:38 PM |
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Thank you all for your help. I've ordered the correct cable and hope to begin trouble shooting when everything arrives. Thanks, Tom for sending my old post. I guess I didn't go back far enough in the posts. I didn't remember that the posts were in December. SO much for memory:) When the car starts, I'll post results here.
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| TomO | -- 04-09-2016 @ 7:19 AM |
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Rather than scrolling back through all of the posts, you can do a search on your user name to find all of the posts that you started or replied to. Click on the SEARCH box in the welcome message box. Tom
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| Chascwell2 | -- 04-09-2016 @ 3:20 PM |
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I found great results getting my starter to spin like it should by pulling the starter and lubricating the armature bushings, while it was out, took some garnet paper and cleaned up the armature chascwell
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| 46coupe | -- 04-11-2016 @ 6:12 PM |
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Got the cable today. Tom, what procedure do you recommend using the volt meter? I also might pull the starter as recommended. Probably needs it anyway. I'll try checking the past posts as suggested. Thank you.
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| TomO | -- 04-12-2016 @ 10:01 AM |
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If your starter turns slow: Connect your voltmeter across the battery posts and operate the starter with the ignition off. The meter should read 5.5 Volts or more. If not the battery is discharged or weak. Charge or replace the battery. Connect the COM lead of your meter to the NEG post of the battery and the POS lead of your meter to the post on the starter. Operate the starter with the ignition off. The meter should read 0.3 Volts. If you have a reading higher than this, it indicates excessive resistance in the circuit. To isolate the problem, move your POS lead back towards the battery one connection at a time and repeat the test. Each time you move it the reading should decrease by 0.1. When you reach the point where the reading changes by more than 0.1, you have found the problem. Connect the POS lead of your meter to the POS terminal of the battery and the COM lead to the case of the starter. Operate the starter with the ignition off and read the voltmeter. It should read 0.1 or less. A higher reading indicates problems in the grounding circuit. To isolate move the lead back to the engine grounding strap and repeat the test. If the reading is normal, pull the starter and clean the mounting surface, otherwise clean the grounding points and replace the grounding straps. If all of the reading are OK, the problem is in the starter or a bind in the engine. Tom
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| 46coupe | -- 04-12-2016 @ 1:26 PM |
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Thanks for the help, Tom. I'll be working on this on Thursday and will let you and everyone know what I find.
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