| len47merc | -- 04-01-2016 @ 7:16 AM |
|
After a multi-year and quite exhaustive search have given up on finding a replacement for the holy grail of '46-'48 Mercury trim pieces (wider of the two long strips on the right fender) and am resigned to purchasing the necessary tools and repairing the strip myself. If any of you have experience in this regard and can make a recommendation on the necessary tools, brands and sources I'd greatly appreciate your input. Attached are a couple of pics of the 'project' piece. The damaged/flattened area of the trim caused the piece to spring out straight when removing from the car. Oh, and yes, Momma was quite happy about my placing it on the counter for photos. Thanks - Steve
|
|
| len47merc | -- 04-01-2016 @ 7:18 AM |
|
Second pic - side view with clearer indication of the damage to be repaired. Steve
|
|
| Old Henry | -- 04-01-2016 @ 12:14 PM |
|
I'm sure there a numerous approaches to the task but here's how I did mine. The tools were very simple: 1) Pick-nick table, 2) variety of wooden handled paint brushes, 3) hammer, 4) file. On my pick-nick table the top surface boards have a gap between them about ¼". I laid the bent piece lengthwise along the gap then used an appropriately shaped wooden paint brush handle at about a 45° angle where I needed to pound a dent out and hit it gently with a hammer to push the metal down into the crack in the table to straighten it. I used the file as I approached perfection to file across a dent to see if it was smooth. If not, a bit more pounding until filing on the surface no longer showed the dent. That is traditionally called the "pick and file" method of smoothing metal. After the stainless piece was smooth I buffed it on the buffing wheel using appropriate stainless steel rouge and it looked like new. Good luck. With time and patience and practice you'll get it.
|
|
| woodiewagon46 | -- 04-01-2016 @ 2:14 PM |
|
Basically the same as Old Henry, I made a variety of tools to move the metal but you must be patient and take your time. You will be surprised how easy some areas move and others near an edge are harder. Don't be too aggressive and work it gradually.
|
|
| TomO | -- 04-02-2016 @ 7:43 AM |
|
Steve, I have removed dents in the stainless trim by making a wooden die that is the same profile as the trim piece and then using a brass rod with a rounded end in my drill press, carefully press out the dent. I have not tried this on badly damaged trim, like yours, but it look as if you might have to make an inner and outer die to use this process. Be careful using a file to show the low and high spots, as the trim is thin. I use sandpaper with a stiff backer. This method also reduces the polishing time. I don't know how you can polish the trim piece and have it look like the other pieces without polishing all of them. I would look for a piece of stainless trim at your local swap meets to practice on. It doesn't have to be Ford or Mercury, just the same gauge as your trim. Good luck Tom
|
|
| fordv8j | -- 04-02-2016 @ 12:37 PM |
|
to restore the trim on our 38 fords... took a 5/16'' carriage head bolt..filed the head to fit inside the stainless..put bolt in vice,then placed stainless over bold head...tapped with a punch that had been ground flat...then filed and buffed
|
|
| EFV-8 Club Forum : | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum |
| Topic: | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=9536 |