| 46coupe | -- 03-30-2016 @ 12:54 PM |
|
What type of fluid/oil should I use for the shocks? The shop manual says to use Ford....... which I doubt they make anymore. Secondly I am getting seepage at the rear of my rebuilt master cylinder. Apparently where the line goes into the rear of the cylinder. Can Teflon tape be used as a fix? The threads are not cross threaded and I hesitate trying to tighten it anymore.
|
|
| 40 Coupe | -- 03-31-2016 @ 4:51 AM |
|
If your shocks are rebuilt contact the rebuilder for their advice as to the fluid and why the shocks need to be refilled. Appears they are leaking. If the shocks are not rebuilt after all these years they will not hold any fluid very long. There are copper flat washer seals on the bolt that may need to be replaces, to stop the leak of brake fluid. They have the basic part number 2151 & 2152. One seal on each side of the brass fitting The bolt is hollow but very sturdy so make sure it is tight. Do not use Teflon tape or any type of thread sealant! This message was edited by 40 Coupe on 3-31-16 @ 4:52 AM
|
|
| 46coupe | -- 03-31-2016 @ 6:04 AM |
|
Thanks for your reply. The shocks have not been rebuilt and show no sign of leaking. I just want to bring the fluid levels up to where they should be, which may lead to other problems. I installed the washers when the master cylinder was rebuilt. The fluid appears around the threads of the brake line connections and does not leak every time the peddle is depressed. Could that still be the thru bolt?
|
|
| cliftford | -- 03-31-2016 @ 6:42 AM |
|
Re: the brakes: It sounds like there is a crack or other defect in the flared end of one of the lines. I would replace both lines and the fitting they screw into.
|
|
| kubes40 | -- 03-31-2016 @ 11:31 AM |
|
The shocks can be safely topped off with hydraulic jack fluid. You can purcahse that at NAPA. W/O a photo of where exactly the brake fluid is leaking I can only surmise by your description, the leak is at the very end - perhaps between the fitting and cylinder and / or the between the fitting and the bolt. If that's the case, obtain new brass washers, also available at NAPA. take the old ones along to match diameters needed. If the leak is coming from the brake lamp switch, tighten it up a bit more. It is a pipe thread and as such requires no sealant.
|
|
| 46coupe | -- 03-31-2016 @ 12:29 PM |
|
Thanks for the reply. I'll get some hydraulic fluid for the shocks. Regarding the MC leak, seepage is around where the brake line(s) enters the brass block. I have tightened both lines and am afraid of stripping them by tightening anymore. The thru bolt you mention appears to not be leaking. I've thought about disconnecting the lines and tightening them again. It is frustrating when they do not leak for a day or two and then I check and find fluid on my test area. They had not leaked for a coupe of days so I had a friend help me bleed the system. Brake pedal was better and then today I found fluid stain on my test paper. This led me to ask about some type of sealant for the threads.
|
|
| 40 Coupe | -- 04-01-2016 @ 4:31 AM |
|
when you tighten the brake lines do use a line wrench. This wrench will allow you to tighten the steel hex without stripping. If the brass block is a reused part it is possible the seats, inside the block, for the brake lines are damaged. All the brake parts are available as reproductions.
|
|
| kubes40 | -- 04-01-2016 @ 6:55 AM |
|
Thanks for clarifying exactly where the leakage appears to be coming from. I'd check very carefully the brass block seats as well as the brake line flare. If you feel you have tightened the lines up sufficiently, either the brass fitting and / or the line flares have been compromised. Mike "Kube" Kubarth
|
|
| EFV-8 Club Forum : | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum |
| Topic: | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=9529 |