| deluxe40 | -- 02-13-2016 @ 4:00 PM |
|
Trying to figure out if the switch is worn out or if it just needs adjustment. As the picture shows, the switch has two flat tabs that have a 45 degree angle on the end toward the column. These ride on a "C" ring that is pressed onto the back of the steering wheel. When the steering wheel turns the tabs drop into the slot on the "C" ring and when the wheel returns, the edge of the ring hits the tab and bumps the switch back to neutral. Except this doesn't work now. If you know what one of these is supposed to look like, can you tell if mine is worn out (i.e., are the ends of the tabs supposed to be 45 degrees, or is that wear?)
|
|
| trjford8 | -- 02-13-2016 @ 5:32 PM |
|
Glen, I'm not an expert on 51's but looking at the tabs on the switch I think they may be worn too much to make contact. Just for info the height of the C ring on a 52-53 steering wheel is one inch. I suspect 51 should be the same. If it's too short it may not be hitting the tabs. This message was edited by trjford8 on 2-13-16 @ 5:36 PM
|
|
| deluxe40 | -- 02-21-2016 @ 11:21 AM |
|
I found an NOS '51 kit on eBay in completed listings. The picture looked just like my switch with an angle on the tabs. I also checked the cam to be sure it was long enough and it was. So, I cleaned and lubricated the tab and spring mechanism on mine. I also put a weaker spring on the shaft that holds the two pieces of the switch together because I thought the detent mechanism was too stiff and put a set screw in the cam on the back of the steering wheel. Over tightening the set screw allowed me to move the cam closer to the tabs and it also stopped the cam from slipping on the steering wheel. One or all of these things fixed the problem. The signal switch is now easier to operate and it cancels when I turn the wheel back to straight ahead. I'm guessing that the problem was that the stiff mechanism was causing the cam to slip on the steering wheel. I will report back if further testing reveals problems. This message was edited by deluxe40 on 2-21-16 @ 11:25 AM
|
|
| BUCKAWHO | -- 03-09-2016 @ 8:46 AM |
|
Hello....In response to Deluxe40's post, I removed (again) the wheel. The collar seemed tight to the back of the wheel, and the mechanism seemed lubed OK. I removed the collar from the wheel, cleaned both, reinstalled the collar with a tad of super glue. Lubed the collar contact area, cleaned and lubed the steering shaft and wheel slightly, and reinstalled the wheel. I tightened the wheel with everything I had ( I'm an old & skinny guy), and now the signals cancel when the wheel returns to center. I believe that the problem was because I hadn't tightened the wheel nut enough after removing it to try to remove the steering box for a rebuild, which didn't happen due to flathead4rd's helpful advice. As a result the collar wasn't down far enough to contact the tabs properly. At any rate, the next project is to try and find out why the back-up lights don't come on in reverse. Geez, these cars are FUN ! BUCKAWHO
|
|
| BUCKAWHO | -- 03-09-2016 @ 11:40 AM |
|
Hello....And you might not believe how long it took me to realize that the vehicle lights have to be on for the back-up lights to work when the shifter is put in reverse ! Well, maybe you would ! Did I say these old Fords were FUN ? BUCKAWHO
|
|
| EFV-8 Club Forum : | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum |
| Topic: | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=9383 |