| jwicklow | -- 11-28-2015 @ 12:46 PM |
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I am new to early ford V8s, and could use a little advice. I have recently purchased a '39 DeLuxe coupe in excellent condition. It is mostly original, with some exceptions (new bumpers, battery, etc.). The engine starts up immediately and runs well. Everything seems to have been well maintained. However, when I drive through town, the car feels like it is all over the road, and I am constantly turning the steering wheel to correct my path of travel. Is this normal for a car this old, or am I just unrealistically expecting it to be like a modern car? If the steering issue is not normal, does it sound like I will need to focus on the steering box, the linkage, or alignment? Thanks for your help.
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| rebrown | -- 11-28-2015 @ 3:35 PM |
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I had quite a bit of "slop" in my 36 Tudor steering until the tie rod ends were replaced. It is much better now but still feels a lot different than a modern car with power steering. I would check the tie rods and linkage and go from there.
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| cliftford | -- 11-28-2015 @ 3:44 PM |
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There are a number of possibilities. Steering box, tie rod, pitman arm, kingpins, wheel bearings, steering box loose on frame,or a combination of these. I would jack it up, put jack stands under the frame and check each componet. Also check spring bushings.
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| trjford8 | -- 11-29-2015 @ 7:17 AM |
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I'll add to cliftford's list. Old tires can also add to the problem.
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| woodiewagon46 | -- 11-29-2015 @ 8:45 AM |
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If you are new to early Ford V-8s the last thing you want is a car that is unsafe and one that you won't want to drive. Winter is a great time to jack up the front end and go over everything mentioned above. Most are simple repairs that can be done if you have some mechanical skills. There is a wealth of information available on this site and everyone will be willing to give you advice on what you don't know.
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| TomO | -- 11-29-2015 @ 8:50 AM |
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New tires can also make the steering difficult. I have Dual 90s on my Lincoln and it can be a chore keeping it straight on bumpy roads. My 40 Mercury has Coker Forestone 6.50x16 tires and tracks very nicely, but with more correction than my modern car with rack and pinion steering and radial tires. Check your front end for wear by jacking up one front wheel and try to move the wheel as if the car were turning. There should be no movement. If there is, look to see where the movement is and repair or replace the worn parts. Next grab the top and bottom of the tire and try to move it. There should be no movement, if there is your kingpin bushings need to be replaced. Do not try to adjust out the slop in the gear box. If you have slop in the gear box, remove it and have it rebuilt or rebuild it yourself. Trying to adjust out the slop will just cause more wear on the sector and could lead to a dangerous condition. Tom
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| jwicklow | -- 11-29-2015 @ 11:19 AM |
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Thanks everyone for your great advice. I will follow all of it in the Spring. The car just went into Winter storage, so I won't be able to do anything with it until I get it back out. The car is so new (to me) that I don't even know what to ask for help about, but I'm sure I will learn in a hurry come Spring. There are a few things that I have already noticed and have questions about, and will be posting those over the next few weeks. Thanks again for everyone's help.
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| len47merc | -- 11-29-2015 @ 5:40 PM |
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jwicklow - all great advice above. For me and personal (safety) peace of mind, and not knowing my 37K original miles vehicle prior to obtaining it, and rather than 'inching-up' on the front end by replacing one thing (or a couple of things) at a time and determining the results, my choice was to call James @ Job Lot and request of him all the components needed to restore the front end to as new condition. I knew, per TomO's test and prior knowledge with king pins, that they needed changing and a machine shop would be required to replace them professionally and properly. As well, personal experience with tie rod ends suggested these needed to be changed as well. Drag link - experience back to the early '60's at the time only so went there as well. Radius rod bushing - no experience at all so purchased that as well. New tires(?) - the Flintstone-like flat-spotted bias plys the car had been sitting on for ~40 years had to go - replaced with new Firestones (original bias plys) from Coker. Found a local seasoned veteran that was the 'only' Model A thru '50's vintage car front end guy around, gave him the parts and told him to call me when he was done and it was 'right' (I could have changed all the parts myself as well as contracted the king pins but I had knowledge of the individual's expertise and his turn-key cost was too reasonable to pass up). Parts were not that expensive, camber was properly adjusted and set (i.e., front axle slightly 'bent'/adjusted on the front left) and the '47 tracks very well on 710 15 bias plys, even on broken and/or groved pavement. Good as rack & pinion & radials - absolutely not, but worlds - worlds ahead of where the vehicle was upon receipt. One of the few contracted jobs I undertook for this car and was glad I did - no worries, nor sitting on pins and needles, about what '...might go wrong...', am I going to lose my steering/control(?), etc.. After receiving the car back, the steering box was clearly only in need of gear oil and did not need any rebuilding. Hate to spend money, or recommend money money be spent, when it is not needed - steering, suspension and brakes on an unknown vehicle are areas I personally endeavor not to take any chances or risks with. Steve This message was edited by len47merc on 11-29-15 @ 5:42 PM
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| Chris.NZ | -- 12-05-2015 @ 3:15 PM |
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Come spring take it into a local tire shop. They will check it out and should be able to tell you what's wrong.
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