| lzeiglerct | -- 11-26-2015 @ 3:34 PM |
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I have a 1935 Ford that after driving 5-10 miles quits. It cranks over and there is no spark to the plugs. I had the coil tested and it was in very good condition. I was given s few used condensers to try and with one it seemed to start and run well. Then drove about 6 miles and it quit. waited about 15 min and it started again. I plan to buy a new condenser but does anyone have any other thoughts on this?
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| MG | -- 11-26-2015 @ 5:14 PM |
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How was it determined that your coil "was in very good condition"???
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| lzeiglerct | -- 11-27-2015 @ 7:03 AM |
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I sent the coil to a guy in Punta Gorda Florida that rebuilds coils. He tested it and said it was in excellent condition. Part of his test was getting the coil hot....he said hotter than it would get in the car, and he said that it preformed very well This message was edited by lzeiglerct on 11-27-15 @ 7:05 AM
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| drkbp | -- 11-27-2015 @ 9:19 AM |
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Sounds like a bad coil and I guess you are running the 3-hole biscuit coil, correct? I also assume you don't have anyone nearby with a "for sure" good coil off a driver. May I suggest: 1. Send the coil off to one of the rebuilders. I have never had a coil rebuilt for my V8 in the forty years I have owned it but one I hear about is named Haney. 2. Buy one of the coil adaptor kits available from the vendors. It allows you to run a regular 6-volt coil and condenser. The coil and condenser are both auto parts or Tractor Supply items. As I recall, those coils have an internal resistor and you wire accordingly. When you get your coil back from the rebuilder, you will then have a spare with the "adaptor" set-up. ----------------------------- I have had my '35 Cabriolet since 1975 and keep a spare coil and condenser in the glove box. I look at driving without the spare coil in the glove box just like running around without a spare tire. I have had a couple of flats but yet to be stopped over a coil. Through the years, I have collected a dozen or more coils for the '35. What I do with the "used" coils is put them on the car and run them for a minimum of 50 miles. Take it off and tag it as "good" and put it on the shelf. I probably have a lifetime supply... Ken in Texas
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| TomO | -- 11-27-2015 @ 9:38 AM |
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I would check for voltage at the input to the coil. It should vary between about 3 volts to around 6 volts as you crank the engine. If it does not vary, check the points and the condenser. If the voltage does not go to 6 volts with the points open, check the ignition resistor and the switch. Tom
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| 40 Coupe | -- 11-27-2015 @ 10:25 AM |
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Beside the coils sometimes going bad when exposed to heat, the ignition condensers also can become thermal. A pile of old condensers may be a pile of junk, as you are finding out. NAPA sells a new condenser FA5 or even IH200 which will require some modifications. I have had several from the aftermarket parts suppliers and they were all defective. Skips rebuilt coils do not usually go bad!
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| MG | -- 11-27-2015 @ 11:06 AM |
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@lzeiglerct said: "I sent the coil to a guy in Punta Gorda Florida that rebuilds coils. He tested it and said it was in excellent condition. Part of his test was getting the coil hot....he said hotter than it would get in the car, and he said that it preformed very well." That Skip Haney tested your coil, you can feel confident that the coil is not your problem. I like TomO's and 40 Coupe's suggestions above.... This message was edited by MG on 11-27-15 @ 11:07 AM
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| 1933 | -- 11-29-2015 @ 7:23 PM |
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I think your coil is fine. This is a long shot but take the back of the ing switch apart and clean the connectors inside. A little bad connection on these points can do exactly what your problem is. Also tighten the connectors on the outside of the switch. When your car quits do you have headlites?
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