| 1937sedandelivery | -- 11-06-2015 @ 7:34 PM |
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Hello, I have no idea about how to remove an original (passenger side) door lock cylinder on my 1937 Sedan Delivery. There looks to be an access hole on the side of the door frame but all I can see is what looks like a broken off screw of sorts. It is difficult to see inside the door with all the sheet metal framing. Any help/pics would be appreciated. I need to remove it to ready the door for sanding and painting. Thanks, Gregg
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| nelsb01 | -- 11-06-2015 @ 9:15 PM |
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You are on the right approach. It should be a screw -- with no head, but a slot for a slot screw driver. Slide a thin slot screw driver in and rotate until you find the slot. Do not force it -- you may have to add a little heat from a propane torch. A magnetic tip screw driver really helps here.
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| ford38v8 | -- 11-06-2015 @ 11:55 PM |
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Bruce, Gregg's setscrew is broken, probably similar to mine. One whole side is broken off, slanting down and away from the remaining side of the screwdriver slot. I've never seen any kind of screw break in this fashion, so Gregg and I would like to hear of a good way to get it (them) out. Alan
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| 40 Coupe | -- 11-07-2015 @ 5:03 AM |
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There is no good way to remove the broken head, set screw. If you try to use a drill it will walk off center because of the difference in the height of the surface. It's going to take a long time and some luck. With luck the threads 10-32 will be clean enough to get the screw to move. Suggest a Dremel tool with a small carbide bit (maybe globe shape) make a center mark into the broken head then a drill and a Easy-Out, if necessary heat the tube the set screw is in. This will take a looong time, don't rush it. The set screw is about 1/2" long. There should be no need to drill the entire length, just enough to get the Easy-out into. The screw is hard metal. Good luck.
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| 1937sedandelivery | -- 11-07-2015 @ 6:36 AM |
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Thanks everyone. Yes, mine is exactly like Alan's. This ain't going to be pretty. If worst comes to worst, is it practical to drill out the entire lock cylinder from the front facing of the door? Will all the replacement parts/pieces be available? Gregg
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| TomO | -- 11-07-2015 @ 7:14 AM |
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I would remove the door from the car and then work on the lock. It will be easier to keep the drill bit straight, when you are drilling in a vertical position. I would not recommend using an easy out until you have drilled far enough to remove the lock. They have a habit of breaking off and then your only chance to remove it is to take it to a machine shop. By drilling all the way through, you will remove some of the tension holding the screw in place and the easy out can then remove it without breaking. Tom
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| 1937sedandelivery | -- 11-07-2015 @ 8:50 AM |
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Thanks Tom. That will be my morning project, gulp!
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| 1937sedandelivery | -- 11-07-2015 @ 1:26 PM |
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Well, I tried drilling out the set screw. The bit went off center and drilled down alongside the screw for the entire depth (~ 3/4"), and at the cost of a couple drill bits. No improvement in removing the cylinder. Next drilled out most of the entire cylinder from the front. A few taps with a punch and it popped out. I will have to jury rig another set screw to hold the new one in place. Can anyone recommend a supplier for the lock cylinder? Thanks, Gregg
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| 40 Coupe | -- 11-08-2015 @ 4:10 AM |
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Check with Bob Drake. They used to sell the entire door internal assembly for the 40 Ford your door internals may be the same. I believe it is held in with some spot welds. If Bob doesn't have it any more check with Dennis Carpenter.
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| 1937sedandelivery | -- 11-08-2015 @ 6:47 AM |
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Thanks 40 Coupe, that would be sweet if I can find the whole thing. Yes, the retainer assembly is spot welded. It may be tricky to get to but that would be a good problem to have. Gregg
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| Chris.NZ | -- 11-08-2015 @ 4:59 PM |
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Remove the panel - it's only held on by several spot welds. Makes the job a lot easier.
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| 1937sedandelivery | -- 11-12-2015 @ 6:01 PM |
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Thanks, good to know.
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| Pickup | -- 11-28-2015 @ 11:38 AM |
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It's too late now, but for others faced with the same problem, soak the set screw with a 50/50 mixture of ketone and ATF. Reach into the access hole in the door jamb and grab the protruding end of the set screw with hemostats. You may need to try different stats with different jaws, but this saves trying to drill out a hardened set screw.
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