| ajochum | -- 10-21-2015 @ 2:47 PM |
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Yesterday while I was trying to move my 1954 Ford (sorry OHV 239) out to epoxy the floor, I went to start it and both the GEN and OIL lights were dim. I installed a new neutral switch last spring and I've always had trouble finding the "sweet" spot where it wants to turn over. Anyway, I cranked it off and on for a few minutes and cleaned my terminals and suddenly the lights went nice and bright - figured I was all set. Primed it with gas and it just cranks with no sign of wanting to kick. I don't seem to have any spark. I have two other coils lying around and switched them out with no success. I ran an OHM meter and just like the good YouTube video says, I have around 1.6 ohms between the + and - and around 8,600 on either of the two coils going from the center to the + or -. Sounds like the coil is good??? I then took the wire from the distributor cap, held it close to ground on the engine and cranked it with the ignition on via shorting out the solenoid with the old screwdriver trick. I saw no spark. FYI - I am stock and 6 volts. I checked continuity of the wire going from the coil to the distributor and it appears fine. For the record: To get around the constant finding the previously mentioned "sweet" spot on the neutral switch, I just clipped them together, which I assume is OK??? Just now I checked the gap on the points and cleaned the rotor - all look good and it has a new cap. I then disconnected one of the spark plug wires at the plug and installed a spring to extend it. Tried holding it close to a bolt on the frame, with no success. Can any of you point me in the right direction as to what might be happening here? Thank you - Andy
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| cliftford | -- 10-21-2015 @ 4:19 PM |
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Do you have voltage at the Batt side of the coil? If not, check the conductor back to the switch. I would suspect a bad connection at resistor or the resistor itself. If that's ok, check for voltage at the switch. I suspect that the coil is not your problem.
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| ajochum | -- 10-21-2015 @ 6:18 PM |
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Thanks for the reply - I just went out and measured: I have 6.28v on the battery side (+) of the coil (connecting the meter to the coil + and the other to the positive ground of the battery). Additionally, I have the same 6.28v on the negative side of the coil. Is that correct? I managed to get under the dash and have the same 6.28v on the ignition switch. NOTE: All readings are with the key turned to on. My car has two solenoids - one in the typical spot and the other on the firewall. It gets very warm when I leave the ignition switch on for any length of time. I hear it click properly when the key is turned however. Next to it is a 2"x3" or so panel which is marked with an "H" and an "A". I have the 6.28v on the "H". There is a small fuse running across and it is testing good. You mentioned a "resistor" - I'm out of my element a bit on this and trying to muddle through it. Could you tell me about the resistor? If my solenoid is bad, could that cause the problem? Any further thoughts? This message was edited by ajochum on 10-21-15 @ 6:20 PM
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| fla48 | -- 10-21-2015 @ 6:58 PM |
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I would replace the resister. Had a similar problem years ago and a new resister fixed it. Good luck.
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| ajochum | -- 10-21-2015 @ 7:11 PM |
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By "resistor" do you mean the "condenser"?
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| cliftford | -- 10-21-2015 @ 7:14 PM |
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My memory is a little fuzzy on the 54 models,before 12 volts, but the older fords had a resistor between the ign switch and the coil. It sounds like yours does not, since you are getting over 6v to the coil. If the engine cranks normally,your solenoid is probably ok. Put your voltmeter from the batt side of the coil to ground and crank it over. It should fluctuate as the points open and close. If not, check the points. Then put your volt meter across the battery and crank it with the switch on .The voltage shouldn't drop more than 1 volt. If it does, look for bad connections or starter problems. I am confused by the 2nd solenoid,unless you have a convertible .
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| ajochum | -- 10-21-2015 @ 7:48 PM |
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I will do what you said tomorrow. Yes, you are on the money - it is a convertible and I know it is tied to top up/down and the power windows and seats.
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| ajochum | -- 10-22-2015 @ 5:31 PM |
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Cliftford - I connected a small test light to the "points" side of the coil and then to ground. I turned the ignition to "on" and the light came on. I then cranked it and the light goes off and on - points opening and closing I believe. Then I hooked the meter to the + and - of the battery and it showed 6.28v - when cranking it dropped to 5.37 or so. All this after I changed my condenser. Thus no change in anything. I don't know if this would accomplish anything, but I hooked an alligator clip to the inside of the #1 wire in place of the spark plug and then hooked that to my meter. With the other end I placed it on the ground side of the battery with no voltage showing as I cranked. I did the same moving it to the positive side of the battery and there was some digital movement but nothing major. I'm back to thinking coil, but hate to throw parts at it just as a guess. Thanks for everyone's responses.
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| ajochum | -- 10-22-2015 @ 6:13 PM |
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SUCCESS !!! I took the coil wire from my Saab and immediately I had spark. It's only sputtering right now as its pretty flooded, but all looks well. Thank you everyone for not only the help, but the knowledge. AJFord54
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| cliftford | -- 10-22-2015 @ 7:09 PM |
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Congradulations, That's one thing I didn't think of. As the spark plug and coil wires get older, the restistance increases and they eventually fail. You may want to replace the spark plug wires soon. I'm assuming they are the non metal resistance wires. If you have any missing in the future' that would be a sign. I would also be concerned about the solenoid getting hot. Maybe someone else has some thoughts on this.
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