| readthegrain | -- 09-28-2015 @ 2:41 PM |
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Hello I am a new member to your group and quite pleased to be . I have just received my Grandfather's 1936 Cabriolet and am just thrilled. Well, the fun started earlier than I had expected when right after getting the car, I got distracted talking to people about it and accidentally left the ignition turned on. After about half an hour the coil basically exploded, the casing cracked and gooey stuff started seeping out. Don't I feel foolish. Well, I have an adaptor plate and a later model coil coming from a parts store but they said they haven't been able to get the domed coil for many years. The rest of the car is stock and correct so I feel a duity see what I can do to get the domed coil back on. Do you all have any thoughts on finding one? Arvid Friday Harbor, WA
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| Don Rogers | -- 09-29-2015 @ 2:59 AM |
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Check with George (Skip) Haney, 12168 Azure Court, Punta Gorda, FL 33955 Day: 941-637-6698 Eve: 941-505-9085 He rebuilds coils for the old Fords on an exchange basis but might sell you one outright.
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| Whifty | -- 09-29-2015 @ 7:26 AM |
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Ebay http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2060353.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.TRS5&_nkw=1936+ford+coil&_sacat=0
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| trjford8 | -- 09-29-2015 @ 8:02 AM |
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If you buy a coil from e-Bay get one that is cheaper and have Skip Haney rebuild it. Buying an expensive NOS(new old stock)coil is always a gamble and you may have to rebuild it anyway.
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| TomO | -- 09-29-2015 @ 8:30 AM |
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Plan on having any dome top coil that you buy rebuilt and the only ones that Skip Haney or Jake Fleming will rework are the original Ford script ones. Here is a link to Skip's website http://www.fordcollector.com/coils.htm Here is a link to Jake Fleming's contact info http://www.lzoc.org/Sources/sources.htm Tom
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| readthegrain | -- 09-30-2015 @ 10:23 AM |
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Thanks for the tip on the Ford script. The one for sale on eBay now is an off brand
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| Grant | -- 10-01-2015 @ 6:20 AM |
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Welcome to the Early Ford V8 Club Of America. About a month ago I obtained a genuine Ford coil for our '36 roadster from fellow member Ken Isidor. A beauty. Very reasonable price. Nice fellow. Ken's contact information is listed in the club's Roster under the state of Connecticut. Or, you could try sending him a PM private message via this site. If I remember correctly, his EFV8 monicker is kenct.
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| Bob56 | -- 10-04-2015 @ 5:48 AM |
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I have the exact same car and bought one of Skip's coils but have no idea how to convert it back. Can anyone tell me where I can find photos and instructions since this car is 15 years older that me.
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| ken ct. | -- 10-04-2015 @ 7:23 AM |
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Convert it back "to what" don't understand ???? Convert it back from what ??? ken ct.
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| supereal | -- 10-04-2015 @ 11:49 AM |
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If the conversion is a plate that replaces the coil, simply remove it and attach the coil in place of the screws for the conversion. If the converted coil was a round one, it is likely the resistor on the firewall was bypassed or removed. You will need it with the correct coil.
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| Bob56 | -- 10-04-2015 @ 4:00 PM |
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It was converted like the gentleman who started this thread. The coil is three mounting hole script top not the Dome This message was edited by Bob56 on 10-4-15 @ 4:00 PM
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| ken ct. | -- 10-04-2015 @ 11:02 PM |
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That is a pic of a domed 34-to early 36 if it has the fORD script on top your good to go. Send it to Skip for rebuilding.These are the only script coils with 3 screw hold down. All others are 2 screws. ken ct. Or find one at a swap meet there cheap usually $5 to $25 make sure it has no cracks in it and cone shaped spring and top stud for connecting wire from firewall is intact (spring is on bottom of coil. ken ct.
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| Bob56 | -- 10-05-2015 @ 2:56 AM |
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I bought the coil from Skip, trying to figure out how it goes on. Any photos would be appreciated. What am I looking for on the firewall?
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| ken ct. | -- 10-05-2015 @ 4:38 AM |
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If you have the correct dist on the car its pretty obvious how it goes on the dist also has 3 mounting holes for the coil in a triangle pattern. Its also possible previous owner installed a 37-41 dist which is interchangeable with the corresponding 2 screw coil. You will have to describe what the dist. is on your car. There is also a late 36 coil which is diff from either early 37 and 37-41 one. Would be easier to call and talk to someone whose knows dist. 1-203-260-5945 cell ken ct. we need more info on what you have ????? ken ct.
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| drkbp | -- 10-05-2015 @ 5:26 PM |
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Bob56, The coil you pictured is the late '36 two screw flat top coil. It fits a late 1936 distributor which will mount on any '33-'36 twenty-one stud engine. I keep one coil/distributor as a spare to mount as a unit. The late '36 distributor has the two mounting holes diagonal across the distributor and that coil will not fit the three hole '34- early '36 distributors. I have had my '35 Cabriolet for forty years and never found a reason to rebuild a coil. NOS coils for the 21 stud engines come up on ebay often. Some things like shocks are hard to find but not script coils. Ken in Texas
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| Bob56 | -- 10-06-2015 @ 4:05 AM |
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My apologies, it is a two hole coil that I got from Skip. There is no resistor that I can see on the firewall. Since I want to put this back to stock, where is the resistor mounted and how is the wire run to the coil. I assume the photo attached is the resistor that I should be looking for.
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| 40 Coupe | -- 10-06-2015 @ 4:37 AM |
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Bob56: The coil you pictured is the late 36 coil and will ONLY fit the late 36 distributor due to the placement of the two screw holes. If your distributor has three mounting holes you need the dome style distributor. If you got the coil from Skip he will most likely trade coils for the dome style, if this is what you need, give him a call. The coils mount to the top of the distributor with 10-32 brass screws. The resistor (as you pictured) is mounted under the dash above the steering column is a rigid board insulation plate bolted to the metal firewall. The resistor is bolted to this plate. next to a fuse which is also on the plate. There should be two wires on the resistor one on each side. Try posting a photo of your distributor and coil as it is now. This message was edited by 40 Coupe on 10-6-15 @ 5:21 AM
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| Bob56 | -- 10-06-2015 @ 6:27 AM |
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Attached is what there is now
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| Bob56 | -- 10-06-2015 @ 6:27 AM |
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Here is the coil
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| drkbp | -- 10-06-2015 @ 12:44 PM |
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Bob56, I believe you have the late 1936 distributor, two hole on the diagonal. The "flat top" coil you pictured above will fit the distributor that you are running that has the adaptor on it now. When you pull the adaptor off, you should see the two holes line up with your coil. You are currently running a six volt "round" coil you can get from any parts house or Tractor Supply. They usually have an internal resistor. You probably have the "red" coil wire going to the 6-volt adaptor "round" coil and it will bypass the resistor on the firewall. If you go back original, be sure that the resistor is back in the circuit or you will fry the flat top coil. The resistor drops the voltage to the original coils to about 3+ volts or so. I carry a spare coil in the glove box. Either an adaptor type or another original coil. The real plus to the adaptor type is that you can buy a condenser, or coil, at almost any auto parts house. If you have another '33 - early '36 distributor, it will also fit the 21 stud engine you have in that car. They use the three hole biscuit coil. Same resistor on the firewall to drop the voltage. Ken in Texas
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| 40 Coupe | -- 10-07-2015 @ 5:01 AM |
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Yes you distributor is the late 36 style and the coil you have (flat top) should fit the top of the distributor once the existing adaptor for the cylinder style coil is removed. One of the distributor mounting bolts (top RH )has to be removed to attach the new ignition condenser to ground. After mounting the flat top coil and condenser there should be a red wire on the cylinder shaped coil(-)terminal, it appears from your photo it has been replaced with another colored wire that is too short to reach down to the new coil. remove the wire on the coil (-) terminal either replace it with a longer red wire or splice on additional wire so this wire can reach the new coil and be connected. Reconnect it to the new flat top coil. This wire or the new red wire goes under the dash to one side of the resistor. This is the only wire on one side of the resistor, the other side of the resistor may have one or two wires. If one it should be black/red it goes to the column drop ignition switch. If two wires the second is black/green this wire goes to power up the oil pressure gauge and the fuel gauge. If the wiring appears correct on the resistor you should be ready to try. If this is a bit much you may want to have someone else assist or do the job. This message was edited by 40 Coupe on 10-7-15 @ 5:17 AM
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| Bob56 | -- 10-08-2015 @ 2:54 AM |
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thanks to everyone who replied. I found a picture of the resistor on an old Ford Barn post. I think I am ready to put it back original
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