Topic: Battery Chargers: Opinions Please?


47Fordor    -- 03-06-2010 @ 6:00 AM
  I've been looking at battery chargers, lately to keep up sporadically used 6V batteries, and was wondering if anybody has input (silly question...right?). I've found 2 that are tempting: the CTEK Model UC800 (available from ctek.com for $54.99 + $6 S&H) and the AccuMate 612 (Mac's cataloge: $64.95 w/o S&H).

CTEK: Has desulphation setting but can only be used for 6V (12V only models also available but none that do both).

Accumate: Works for 6V & 12V but add mentions nothing about desulphation, plus costs more.

Both chargers have maintenance settings, which is the primary reason I'm looking. I have 2 chargers right now (neither has maintenance setting) because the one that works for 6V batteries doesn't desulphate.

If anybody has one of these models and could offer info, or if you could steer me toward another model, I'd appreciate it.

Thanks,

Chris


donclink    -- 03-06-2010 @ 7:26 AM
  Chris, I have been using the small Schumacher "Battery Companion" for five years now, on both lead acid and now my Optima battery. It is a 1.5a float charger, for both 6 volt and 12 volt, that I bought at Walmart for under $20.00.

http://store.schumachermart.com/sem-1562a.html


Model B    -- 03-06-2010 @ 8:40 AM
  I agree with Don. I have 5 of the chargers from Walmart. They do a terrific job! I have paid anywhere from $14.95 to $18.95 for them. I have used one on my '32 Ford battery (Ford Script) since '03 and the battery answers the call every Spring! "knock on wood!" Pat


supereal    -- 03-06-2010 @ 9:10 AM
  "Sulfation" occurs, or is accelerated when a lead-acid battery is allowed to fall below a suitable maintenance level. The saturated mat type (Optima) reduces this problem, but requires slow charging, so it is sort of a trade off. Seldom driven cars present this problem, but we often find that a "parasitic" draw either creates, or increases the need to charge the battery. It can be as simple as an electrically wound clock. With the car not running, pull a battery cable and place a voltmeter between the cable and the battery post. If you see any reading, there is a problem. We place a master cutoff switch in all our cars, and very seldom have need for a charger of any type as long as the charging system of the vehicle is in good condition.


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